Grassroots perspectives on climate change from Asia to Europe

Back in New Zealand

2007-07-29T10:50:00.000+12:00

We arrived home just over two weeks ago. Aside from the jetlag it felt very disorienting to be suddenly thrust into the middle of New Zealand winter and such a peaceful, quiet environment. There was some reminder of the main purpose of our journey with heavy rain and flooding in Northland, and then last week the same here in Hawke’s Bay. The heavy rain here came after a severe drought period that developed while we were away.

Despite these weather events it is very hard to not start feeling the comfort, slower pace of life, and distance from everything here in New Zealand. I feel such a deep sense of urgency as a result of the places we’ve been and the people we’ve met and talked to over the last 5 months. The challenge is to maintain this. We all need to be waking up to the reality of what is unfolding in our world.

I gave a talk at very short notice at the Hawke’s Bay Regional Council last week. As a result of this I am now giving two talks on the 6 August, as a special speaker in a speaker series organised by the Sustaining Hawke’s Bay Trust. Late last week I was in the Bay of Plenty region to reignite work I am doing with the Regional Council there (see www.envbop.govt.nz). On 7 August I am flying to Wellington to meet with Ministry for the Environment staff and also have 30 minutes with the Hon. David Parker, the government minister responsible for climate change. All of this is helping keep me on edge and focused.

My view is that New Zealand is in a position where it can provide some real leadership, through our individual and collective actions. But we need to focus our resources much more on empowering communities in shaping and enacting positive visions for their future. Two key needs stand out from our travels through Asia and Europe. The need for more trees and the need for us to develop a greater sensibility to nature.

Like many Asian and some European nations we have problems in New Zealand associated with deforestation and increasingly intensive use of land that is drought and/or flood prone. More erratic weather and more frequent weather extremes are compounding these problems. We need very smart planning and design for the future. There are success stories for us to learn from.

Meanwhile I’ve sent my film camera to Auckland to hopefully resolve the problems that I had after the lens unit was replaced in Florence. Once I get it back I’ll be borrowing another camera and creating backup tapes of all my master tapes. Then I can sit here and starting working through everything that we’ve filmed. I need to transcribe the interviews and start shaping the story that is there. I’ve decided that I want to tell my own story, in my words with my voice. I just need a little support, from someone who has directing/editing skills, who has access to an editing suite and who is happy to work with me. Anyone out there?

Our last night in London, farewell to Lena!

From floods in England to floods in New Zealand.

Back to nature, at Ocean Beach where local developers want to create a residential development. This is costing local ratepayers a small fortune to work through planning processes. There are some good people working on this, but why are we focusing so much energy on a beautiful beach that ought to be kept free of development when we have much bigger issues in front of us. Please can we step back and look at the bigger picture for the future and protect beautiful places where we can walk and enjoy nature.

Two weeks back home and finally a sunny day and a beautiful sunset in a stunningly clear atmosphere. Something that we take so much for granted here in New Zealand.

Final Post From London

2007-07-07T16:28:00.000+12:00

Bags are mostly packed and we're ready for the long journey home to New Zealand, aside from Lena of course. It's been an amazing 5 months. One of our Thai friends, risakorn, reassured me back in February when I was looking a bit worried ... "Don't worry Gavin, if you do good things, good things will happen for you". He was right. So many good things have happened.

Lena is currently on her way home from her job here in London. Once she is here we're going out to the local pub for our final meal together as a family until Lena returns to NZ at the end of October. We're all looking forward to being home. There are plenty of challenges ahead for all of us, but also many possibilities and opportunities. I've had two meetings this week with film people. The first helped me clarify what I don't want to do, which is to give my ideas and contacts away and simply be used as a consultant. The second strongly affirmed what I am doing out of myself and to keep working in that way. It was very heartening to have this said to me today. Thank you to Charlotte for being so affirmative and supportive.

It seems ironic that we'll be in mid-air when the Live Earth concert is happening tomorrow. I contacted them via their website from Europe and offered to help, I was even willing to delay my flight home. We have gathered such powerful images and voices and I was willing to share some of these. Unfortunately I've heard nothing. These things develop their own lives and we keep on doing good things in our own lives.

Out travels are almost over, but keep watching. I'll be posting updates once we're home. I don't know who has followed this site other than family and friends. I hope it has drawn in a few other people. If that is the case then please let me know who you are and share your thoughts. You can post comments here, or go to www.earthlimited.org for a contact email address.

A Thank You Email From Gavin

2007-07-06T21:27:00.000+12:00

Dear Everyone!!

Late last year my family and I made a decision ... my older sister and I had sold our Mum's small house in New Zealand. We had a choice, either pay off the mortgage on our own home or travel and document grassroots perspectives on climate change. Of course you all know what we chose to do.

It took a huge effort to organise our journey, but we could never have done it without all of you. In various ways you all helped us along the way. I want to especially mention Khun Tuenjai and her amazing network of people in Thailand. You organised such a busy itinerary for us to start our journey, but it was such a rich experience and we met so many warm, generous people in your country... too many to name here. After Thailand we were on our own a lot more and it was very hard work at times to meet and film people and places. But we managed. Viet Nam was hard, but we have some very good friends there who did their very best to help us. Our brief stay in India was greatly helped by Andy in New Delhi.

Nepal was both challenging and inspiring ... for Lena, Ali and I it was truly a highlight to walk with Karma Lama for 19 days and to cross Thorong La Pass (5400 metres). I greatly enjoyed meeting Ngamindra and his colleagues in Kathmandu and I sincerely hope we can find a way to work with and support you. A special thankyou to Chandra for being there when we all had food poisoning! Everything in Egypt came together at the last minute, but again we met such warm, hospitable people who did their best to help us. Thankyou to Angela and Selim, and to Prof Zakharia for compelling me to go out to the Western Desert where we again met some wonderful people at Bahariya Oasis ... thankyou Ahmed and Corien.

In Italy I have to thank Marco and his small team and I sincerely hope we can keep working together and find ways to work with all of these other wonderful people we have met. And who would have imagined the connection with Katharina and Alfredo in a beautiful valley in Umbria ... a place we went to because the accommodation was a good deal and it looked nice! In Milan, thankyou to Iva and Paolo for having us in your home. We experienced the same warmth again with the Galli family in Lugano. Our time in France was too short, but thanks to Remy for having a bit of time to meet and talk... and to Jean-Pierre and Claire in the south of France (whose email address I don't have) for your wonderful work.

We've come to the end of our journey now. On Saturday, 7 July, Karen, Ali, Emma (who many of you never met but maybe you will one day) and I leave London for New Zealand. Lena is staying on here until late October and has already started a job here in London. For me the last week or so has been a time to rest and reflect. I have a lot to do when I get home, not least of which is to start earning some money again!! I still don't know yet how I'm going to produce a documentary out of all that we've done. But it will happen somehow. Meanwhile I am working on ways to strengthen the connection that I have made with many of you and hopefully to find ways to develop interconections between some of you and others in your respective countries. Already many of you are interconnected through our blog page ... if you haven't looked recently, take a look at http://earthlimited.blogspot.com/

Unfortunately I'm not able to communicate to many of the real grassroots people we met ... farmers, village leaders and others ... Thankyou to those of you who helped me meet all of these people.

A special mention goes to my cousin, Michael, who has done such a wonderful job with the blog page. And to my big sister Jill for buying me such a great hat!.... and to everyone else who I haven't mentioned by name!!

Very warm regards from me and on behalf of my family Gavin, Karen, Lena, Emma, Alice.

Alice's Renaissance study

2007-07-05T22:23:00.000+12:00

It wasn't planned but it happened that we arrived in Florence a few days before Alice's class began a 3-week study of the Rennaisance. Their focus was Florence, the Duomo, and the work and art of the likes of Leonardo da Vinci, Michaelangelo and others. We were very fortunate, through my colleagues at the University of Florence, to get reservations for visits to the Uffizi and Acadamia Galleries. The latter was built specifically to house Michaelangelo's 'David'. So we had one very full day going to these two galleries and climbing to the top of the Duomo dome. Alice was totally absorbed, awake to it's significance to her education and also very aware that she was in a living classroom while her classmates back in New Zealand were studying what she was experiencing and seeing. This was a very exciting time for her class teacher, Johnny, who was able to bring the subject to life much more by sharing some of what Alice was seeing and experiencing. These photos capture some of this.

Following our intensive cultural day we also managed a trip to Pisa to see the tower and then, on our way back to Florence, visiting the small village of Vinci. The home of Leonardo (his name literally means 'Leonardo from Vinci'. There is a small museum there with models of many of his designs. It was a real privilege to share all of this with Alice. Later in our journey through Switzerland and France we came across other places of relevance ... the old city of Basel has Renaissance period buildings, Chenonceaux in the Loire Valley is a wonderful example of French Renaissance architecture, landscape design and with period furniture inside, and at Le Louvre of course we saw a number of da Vinci's paintings including his most famous, Mona Lisa.

Alice's Renaissance slide show

Lugano to London slideshow

2007-07-03T21:40:00.000+12:00

2 July 2007 England

2007-07-03T20:44:00.000+12:00

For most of our journey we've been experiencing warm, often very hot, weather. Not so since we came to England! Temperatures have been in the late teens to low 20s. There was flooding last week, including in Doncaster, South Yorkshire where Karen's Aunt and Cousins live. On the BBC news website (www.bbc.com) someone suggested that there was a need for reafforestation in many parts of England, in hills that were deforested at least 500 years ago. A big source of the problem, someone else said to the media, is that there have been too many housing developments in flood plains since World War 2. Along with these developments have been storm-water drainage systems and other infrastructural developments (such as motorways) that have tended to be contrary to, rather than in harmony with, natural water flows. Climate change is a factor say the experts. In the past floods often occurred after cold winters, with snow melt. Not so now, they are more a result of unseasonal rainfall events such as has been experienced here over the last week. What is the real source of the problem, what are the right solutions? All of the above and more. This is the reality of the early 21st century, the legacy of centuries, perhaps thousands of years, of human activity that has often been contrary to nature and natural processes.

What lessons are there to learn from the past? Visiting Stonehenge yesterday was cause for some reflection on this question ... a place that first had a human presence around 5000 years ago in an environment that was originally forested. But from listening to the audio commentary as I walked around it is clear that we have many more questions than answers. There is an awful lot that we are very ignorant of, but we're not very good at acknowledging our ignorance in all of the things we do in our modern world. We drove down the road to Old Sarum, the subject of what I consider to be a very powerful painting by Constable. A painting that to me is a reflection, actually a question, on the right relationship between human and nature. It was a Constable-like day with many clouds in the sky, wild and windy, a bit of sun trying to break through.

Reflections from Stonehenge.

A 'Constable' scene ... looking towards Salisbury from Old Sarum.

A view towards Old Sarum, just another hill from a distance, but a hill with 5000 years of human history. Fields and sky dominate now.

I'm meeting a film producer tomorrow. The first response I had over the phone was that my filming won't be good enough to work with. I was told that if I really have a story worth telling then maybe I could use what I've filmed to sell the idea, and then a film crew could be sent out. I wasn't demoralised by this. We're still going to meet. I can't say if the filming Lena and I have done is good enough or not. I do know I have a very good story amongst everything we've filmed. I know that I've captured images and moments that can't be reproduced in what would be a much more contrived manner. I also know that I've met and interviewed people who probably can't be re-interviewed and will never talk as freely and as spontaneously as I've managed to get them to talk at times. So we'll see what happens. It is very positive that someone is willing to meet with me. It's a beginning of another phase that I expect to be very challenging. Thanks to my Mum's estate, I found the resources to buy professional film gear and head off on a journey. I found support from some amazing people along the way, firstly from our amazing friends in Thailand, in particular Khun Tuenjai, and then from others in different places. I don't have the resources to do any more. It's time to get back to New Zealand and start earning some money again. But so many people have given so much and shown belief in me and what I'm doing. I'll keep on working as well as I can to make something out of all of this.

From London

2007-07-01T21:16:00.000+12:00

Tuesday, 26 June
We arrived in London on Saturday (23 June), our journey almost over. There was a major scare at the airport in Paris. After doing an automatic check-in and passing through passport control we were in the queue to check in our bags. It was then that I discovered that the black bag with all 30+ hours of film from the last 4 ½ months was missing. No bag, film gone. I was told afterwards that I went white with shock. Through a combination of real exhaustion and carelessness the bag had been left behind in our lease car when we dropped it off and transferred to a shuttle. Fortunately we had time to spare and I had kept the paper with the phone number for the lease car company (only because it had a map on it and I'm a hoarder of maps!). They found the bag and delivered it to me at the arrivals area. This temporary loss had me questioning, for a short time, what I had achieved from this journey. Was it nothing without the film? I don't believe so. In fact I have gained so much more in terms of a deepened understanding of the real issues people are already experiencing and some of the very positive things that are being done. I capped off the day by taking Emma to see Crowded House and Peter Gabriel in Hyde Park (reviews here and here. Cheers Michael). It was a great way to finish a nearly disastrous day.

Yesterday I visited the UK Department for the Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (DEFRA), www.defra.govt.uk, and gave a presentation covering my New Zealand adaptation work, lessons from this and reflections from the last 4 ½ months. It was well received, with plenty of questions and some discussion afterwards. One of the staff talked about the current international debate that is happening in terms of who pays who for adaptation and how you make the distinction between adaptation to climate change and adaptation to the inherent variability of climate. This debate is paralysing international actions. I kept reinforcing my very clear view that the only way forward is to be guided by what is happening on the ground. Too many people now are spending too much time in meetings, workshops and seminars talking and debating what ought to be done to address the effects of climate change. Meanwhile, people on the ground are acting. The smartest farmers are, in my view, always ahead of everyone and I certainly believe we've encountered some very smart people of the land on our journey. We do need local, national and international policy but it will only be truly effective if shaped in a way that is relevant to people's lives and aimed at empowering local people to own and implement local solutions. The problem is, to put it in the simple words of Michun Gurung, that we have too many talkers and not enough doers.

Where to from here? We are presently based in London until 7 July, then fly back to New Zealand. I have a couple of meetings lined up before we leave, including a return visit to DEFRA to talk in more depth to some staff there. I'm still searching for the right connections that will help me realise the goal of a documentary film. A book might also be a good idea. Seeking funds to support grassroots exchanges and sharing of information is something I will continue working on.

Keep watching this space. It has been very difficult for me to maintain regular posts via Michael (the blog site manager) since we arrived in Italy on 14 May. Access to the internet has been difficult in many places and there have been many demands on my time. From now on things will be much easier. So I will keep adding useful information for those who are interested.

Sunday, 18 June
Yesterday I met Jean-Pierre Caumont at the Montcuq market and bought some of his wine. This morning I drove to his farm to film an interview with him, most likely my only farmer interview in France and the last on this journey. Jean-Pierre comes from a farming family in the village of Escayrac. He went to University but was drawn back to the land and now farms farms 60 ha of cropping land and 3.5 ha of wine grapes with his wife, Claire. They also own about 40 ha of forest land for biodiversity and aesthetic benefits. Jean-Pierre has aways felt an affinity with nature, but farmed conventionally for many years. Increasingly he saw the effects of intensive use of chemicals and also began experiencing more chaotic weather patterns. So he decided to move towards an organic production system. The term 'organic' or 'biologique' in French, is one that he and his wife, Claire, have been cautious in using. They are people who are simply passionate about the land and the environment and don't really like to be labelled in a particular way. Over the last 20 years Jean-Pierre has noticed more extreme weather events, more unpredictability with rainfall, and higher temperatures. Hotter summers are being reflected in increased alcohol content of wines in the region. He perceives greater challenges in the future with cropping than with the wine grapes. The deep-rooting of the vines enables them to withstand drought, for example. His experience is that with organic soil management, biodiversity protection and diversity of production they have a greater capacity to buffer against climatic extremes. Both Jean-Pierre and Claire are strongly committed to protecting local biodiversity, demonstrated by the fact that they recently bought a neighbouring piece of woodland to prevent another would-be buyer from clear-felling it.

If you live somewhere in Europe and want to support a couple of very dedicated people by purchasing their wine you will be able to find out about them over the web in the future. The name of their farm is Le Pech d'Auzonne. You can get mail order wine by writing to them:

Claire and Jean-Pierre Caumont, Escayrac, 46800 Montcuq, France.

Jean-Pierre and Claire Caumont are deeply committed to protecting and enhancing their local environment for the future.

The man and the vine. Jean-Pierre can honestly say that he knows every vine in his 3.5 ha vineyard.

Vines with woodland in the background, purchased by Jean-Pierre to protect biodiversity around their farm.

5 June - 17 June 2007

2007-07-01T20:24:00.000+12:00

Sunday, 17 June

We left Florence 12 days ago. The time has rushed by as our journey comes towards an end. We left Florence at about 5.30pm, after collecting the film camera from being repaired. From there we drove through to Milan, where we began our Italian journey on 14 May. It was a brief, one night, stay in Milan and then on to Lugano in southern Switzerland. There we spent time with the Grilli family, who Emma had spent 3 months with until joining us when we arrived in Italy. After 5 nights in Lugano we drove to Dornach, near Basel, for 3 nights, then down into France. We arrived in France on 13 June, spending two nights in a tiny place called Chichilianne in the Rhone Alps region, then one night in another small village in the Puy de Dome region, south of Clermont-Ferrand. We're now near yet another tiny village called St. Cyprien, in the south central area of France. Tomorrow I am meeting with a local farmer who I met at the market this morning. This may well be my last interview on this journey.

We have done a lot of travelling but I have managed some interactions with people as well as continued to reflect on lessons from this journey. I have talked increasingly about the importance of finding ways of working harmoniously with our earth, with the natural world. This is a contrary view to the well know British scientist, James Lovelock, who developed the so-called Gaia hypothesis. More recently he has expressed his concerns about the state of the earth and has suggested a planned retreat from nature. I disagreed with this view before and disagree even more strongly now. The many people we have met in different places and their very positive actions support a different approach that is focused on an intelligent and heart-felt re-engagement with nature. Everything we have, all of the wonderful results of the industrial revolution and our modern technological revolution, have been derived from the earth in some form or another. We cannot so easily retreat as Lovelock thinks. I prefer to look at the leader of the Karen village in northern Thailand and his very smart 16 year old daughter, to the Buddhist monk north of Bangkok, to the work of Ajarn Yak in Thailand, to a wise 78 year old man in northern Viet Nam, to wise local leaders in Nepal, to the work of Sekem in Egypt, and more recently to the inherent understanding of our place in landscape, in nature, that is visible in parts of Europe and in the work on the best farmers here.

In the parts of Italy we visited, Switzerland, and now in France we see landscapes where there is a history of understanding the importance of forest and water management. In all the places we've been in these countries I have seen hills covered with trees that in New Zealand and many parts of Asia have been stripped bare. In Switzerland, water catchment areas are forested. In New Zealand, when I gave a talk to a Regional Council a couple of years ago I was considered naïve to suggest that planting trees was the most important thing we could be doing as an adaptation to climate change. Everywhere I've been, every place I've seen, every person I have spoken to over the last 4 months has reinforced this view. In Europe I see the legacy of centuries of understanding the importance of managing whole landscapes. We don't have this legacy in New Zealand. What we do have is a freedom of choice that many other countries and people do not have any more. But for how much longer?

It is very clear to me now that there is a great, unrealised, opportunity to develop truly effective responses to climate and other global changes by simply opening our eyes and ears to the very good things that people are already doing all over the world. In fact I believe we must do this. Things are now moving too fast for the politicians and scientists to keep up. People are already acting, some are already well ahead in their work and thinking.

Scenes from rural France

Making hay in the Rhone Alps region.

The lush countryside in the Puy de Dome region.

14 June
Today we visited a place called Terre Vivante (www.terrevivante.org). This organisation has existed since 1979 when the magazine 'Les Quatre Saisons' was launched by seven passionate ecologists. In 1994 they began the development of a 'discovery centre' focused on demonstrating practical ecology. We visited this centre, with its blend of forests walks, gardens and demonstration sites, on a day when a bus load of school children was there to explore, experience and learn. Their presence strongly reinforced the value of providing a living learning environment for all age groups, aimed at demonstrating positive, attainable, actions for a sustainble 21st century.

In the evening I met with Remy Bacher, the editor of Les Quatres Saisons magazine. I told him how impressed I was with the Terre Vivante centre, with practical examples of the very simple solutions to the many environmental problems we have in the world. I also talked about the importance of local people who provide leadership and an example for others to follow. This has been evident everywhere we have been. Remy said that not just Terre Vivante but increasingly the Trieves area as a whole, in the Rhone Alps where Terre Vivante is located, is providing an example for the rest of France. More an more people are aware of the work of Terre Vivante, of the high proportion of organic farmers in the area, and of a very beautiful and well balanced environment.

Terre Vivante is an excellent educational and resource centre with practical examples for sustainable living in the 21st century.

11 June
As we drove through Switzerland, from Lugano to Dornach, it was evident everywhere that the Swiss understand the importance of trees in the landscape and in managing water catchments.

10 June
Through our wonderful hosts, the Grilli family, I was introduced to a local farmer. Renzo was not born to a farming family, but became a farmer nearly 40 years ago. His motivation was to live and work with the land, with the natural world. He and his family are alpine farmers, During the winter period they move down to their winter house and their stock are housed. In the summer period they move to the summer house, above the tree line, where the stock are able to free range on the herb pastures. Renzo was a bit reluctant to be interviewed and filmed, but he generously agreed. He talked about the dramatic reduction in snow cover that they now experience every winter. The winter rest period, which he considers important for the earth, animals and people, is no longer as it was. The climate is changing and nothing is predictable in the way that it was in the past. This is very unsettling and I think stressful for a family that has worked very hard over a long period. What more can they do than they already are, working and living in a very balanced way?

A view towards Lake Lugano, southern Switzerland, showing a forested water catchment area.

The Swiss have a very clear understanding of the importance of forest cover in water catchments, even with small streams.

There is a long history of winter rest and summer grazing in high alpine areas of Switzerland. This is beginning to change with higher temperatures and significant reductions in snow cover.

The summer farmhouse, with small terrace restaurant for walkers, where Renzo and his family live while they graze their animals in the alpine herb fields.

Renzo, a man who came to live and work with nature 40 years ago and is now finding that he can no longer follow the seasonal rhythms of the past.

5 June
Before leaving Florence my colleague, Professor Marco Bindi, and I talked about possibilities for collaboration. My very strong interest is to work to develop interactions between local people in different parts of the world. I increasingly see this as a real possibility and something that could help provide true leadership for the future.

Italia 29 May - 5 June 2007

2007-06-06T18:46:00.000+12:00

Today we began our week of activities hosted by the Department of Agronomy and Land Management at the University of Florence. Thanks to my colleague, Professor Marco Bindi, and his staff (Sandra and Giacomo) for organising this week for us.

Our first stop was the University research farm, a 300 ha property in the famous Chianti region of Tuscany. A very beautiful place. The manager of the farm talked about some of their research activities, for example work they are doing on erosion control and water conservation through land contouring, and showed us around their facilities. I asked him about changes in climate that they are experiencing. His response was that nothing is reliable with the weather any more. Annual rainfall here is around 400 mm. Historically most of this came in the winter months. Now the distribution is unpredictable. Temperatures are increasing, and rapid temperature changes are being experienced at times. Crops are being affected, for example when they pruned the grapes in the dormant winter period last winter they found that there was still sap flowing at a time when there would normally be no such activity in the plant. It is becoming very hard to manage farm activities with such changes.

A typical scene from Chianti, Tuscany.

Gavin with Giacomo and the manager of the University research farm who talked about the challenges of more chaotic weather that they are already experiencing.

After lunch in the nearby village we drove to a place called Camporbiano (see www.poggiodicamporbiano.it) where we met Piero Alberti, a biodynamic farmer. Piero has been farming this 200+ ha property biodynamically since 1986.

Piero Alberti, one of the smartest farmers I've met.

The farm is organised as a cooperative community with about 14 people living and working there. Piero was the first one there and is responsible for most of the farming activities. He is a very very smart farmer, one of the smartest I have met in all of our travels and even compared to some very good New Zealand farmers that I have worked with. The focus is to farm this property as a living organism, with a focus on sound ecology, a strong social environment and a very robust farm economy. To achieve this there are a diversity of production activities, processing of farm products for sale, biodynamic production techniques, recycling of farm waste back into the farm, management of a very limited water situation extremely smartly, and implementation of a self-sufficient energy programme. The importance and value of this ecologically balanced approach is reflected in the ability of the farm to sustain economic viability through a severe drought period several years ago. They managed the farm through this drought without needing the external economic support that other farmers in the area needed. In relation to climate change Piero made a very profound statement, that farmers in Italy can no longer rely on the proverbs of the past. Everything has changed and is changing very rapidly. The modern farmer, in his view, needs to both be smart in using available technology and develop a greater sensibility to nature. Their success is reflected in the fact that neighbouring farmers are beginning to follow some of their practices.

Scenes from Poggio di Camporbiano, a farm that is about 50:50 forest and productive land, and which is both ecologically and economically very sound.

Our time with Piero was quite limited, but I was so impressed by this story that I arranged a return visit for the following Sunday (3 June). When we returned Piero and his wife Patricia took us on a tour around some of their facilities and the farm. We then joined the whole of their small farm community for a delicious shared lunch. It was only at this time that I fully learnt about the full extent of the cooperative nature of this farm.

Here is a small community of people who are deeply committed to an approach to farming and working with nature that is both very relevant now and increasingly relevant for the future.

A delicious shared lunch at Poggio di Camporbiano.

Here is a small community of people who are deeply committed to a very holistic approach to farming and working with nature, drawing on traditional knowledge and wisdom but working in a very smart and technologically advanced manner.

5 June
Today is our last day in Florence. It has been an excellent time and I'm very grateful to my host Marco Bindi and his staff. We have managed to mix a few farm visits and interviews, a presentation to people at the University and some local farm leaders, a visit to a research lab in Florence, and taking time to see some of Florence. It has been a great privilege to do the latter with Alice, whose class in New Zealand has just this week begun a study of the Renaissance. Here we are at the heart of the Renaissance, inspired by the work of Leondardo da Vinci, Michaelangelo and others. This experience has reinforced in me a need for a modern Renaissance ... perhaps a reunification of the arts and sciences as we see in the life and work of Leonardo da Vinci, and a rethinking of how we work and interact with our natural world.

Italian Photo Slide Show

2007-06-03T16:11:00.000+12:00

27 May 2007

2007-05-31T21:21:00.000+12:00

For the last week we have been enjoying the beauty of Umbria.

We've seen fields with scattered poppies everywhere here, very beautiful.

A time for making hay before the dry of summer really sets in.
At the same time my hope of connecting with some people in the valley we are staying in was realized. It has been a wonderful week, relaxing for the girls and Karen and for the most part for me as well ... the one downside is a mark inside the lens of the film camera which has me concerned. I filmed anyway yesterday to capture important material.

The first few days here we were finding our feet, me still getting used to driving on the right side of the road, finding local supermarkets and so on. In between I managed to make some good connections. With the help of a young Italian couple staying in the apartment next to ours I managed to talk to Guiseppe, the co-owner of La Casella Marilena where we are staying, about my interests. He then connected me with a local woman, Katharina. Through Katharina we met Alfredo and Christine, a couple who own a 100 ha organic farm and a restaurant in the hills here. On Thursday night we had dinner at their lovely restaurant and talked about our journey and my work. They were very interested. It emerged that they are part of a group of people who moved to this valley in the 1970s and have been working over a long period of time on environmental issues. Some of their networking activities can be seen at http://lareteinrete.net The challenge they have had is being seen as outsiders by the long-standing local farmers and community. However, over time, they have worked to make connections and try and influence positive changes with the community. I see a real opportunity to help facilitate stronger connections and interactions. Now is the time for this to happen, as we've seen and heard in every place we've visited so far on this journey. More on this later...

On Friday we went to Assisi. This was a very special day. St Francis of Assisi was a very special person at a time of much conflict, with a universal message that is very relevant now. It is worth repeating part of the text from the brochure we collected from the Basilica of St Francis in Assisi...

“Franciscan existence is an immense space where God, man and the world of nature harmoniously find their place. In Assisi even the sun, moon, stars, fire, water and wind feel at home because Francis dared to call them 'brothers' and 'sisters'.”

Reading this reminded me of a movie I saw about 32 years ago, about the life of St Francis “Brother Sun, Sister Moon”. This movie made a very big impression on a then 16 year old. What moved me most in the Basilica was the Giotti painting of “The Sermon to the Birds”. We walked from the Basilica to the highest point in Assisi, a beautiful view over the village and surrounding countryside.

A view of the Basilica of St Francis
As we left Assisi I was captured by images of field and sky, with Assisi and the Basilica in between. And then a sign to the Sanctuary of Rivotorto caught my eye. This is named the 'hovel of St Francis' where the first Franciscan community was briefly housed... the humble, simple dwelling now overwhelmed by the church of Rivotorto.

The village of Assisi, between earth and sky

The hovel of St Francis within the Church of Rivotorto

On our return to the commune of Lisciano Niccone we drove into a thunderstorm and then beautiful scenes of sun radiating through clouds over the nearby village of Mercatale.

A stunning scene from our temporary home at Marilena la Casella, looking towards Mercatale

Yesterday (Saturday) we drove to Alfredo and Christine's farm, first in mid afternoon to film and photograph scenes on and from the farm and later in the evening to film an interview with Alfredo. It was this on this morning that I noticed a spot through the film camera and discovered some sort of mark inside the lens. This was quite distressing, but I worked my best to manage filming to avoid this mark coming through... and in some cases filmed anyway in the hope that with modern technology something can be done in an editing process to remove the mark that is very obvious at times on the screen.

Alfredo and Christine came to this valley in the mid 1970s, students from University in Rome coming to live an ideal in the countryside. They discovered this beautiful place in Umbria, 100 ha of abandoned land in the hills. The hills were mostly abandoned in the 1960s, with people either moving to the cities or down into the valley to work on tobacco farms which predominate here. They chose an organic approach, consistent with traditional agriculture in this environment, but with contemporary ideas and technology. The forested hills here provide a protective cover that is very important in an environment that becomes very dry in the summer months. But there are problems. The hills and forest are no longer managed in a way that supports sustainability of the whole environment. Mostly now they are occupied by tourists, with over use of water becoming an issue. People are having to drill deeper to get water. The winter snows of 30 years ago are no longer happening, an important source of groundwater recharge. There is heavy use of water in the valley. Alfredo talks to the old people and they say that the agriculture in the valley has been destroyed. Local people hear through the news about climate change, they are experiencing local climatic changes, they wonder if there is a connection. They lack relevant information to help make the connections. The potential here is in the forest, the environment, the mix of people ... the likes of Katharina, Alfredo, Christine and the long-standing farmers and others in the community being supported and empowered to work together for the future.

A traditional storage dam, on Alfredo and Christine's farm. The majority of these traditional dams have been abandoned.

Alfredo cutting hay. In the past the grass would have been 3 times this height at this time of year. Hotter weather and less moisture are possible causes for the lower production in Alfredo's view.

A balanced farm forestry environment.

A view of the farm homestead, with olive grove.

The valley, looking towards the commune of Lisciano Niccone. A very balanced, harmonious environment but with important issues that need to be addressed.

Alfredo, a man who has dedicated his adult life to being a 'doer', putting his ideals into practice in partnership with Christine ... together providing real leadership for the future.

Being in this beautiful valley in Umbria, visiting Assisi, has been very uplifting and a further affirmation of what motivated me towards undertaking this journey with my family. We continue to meet people doing good things... now stretching from Thailand, Viet Nam, Nepal, Egypt, to Italy. It is my goal to work to strengthen the connections that have been made, to create the possibility of bringing some of these grassroots people from different places together. I can do this through a documentary film if I ultimately find the extra support needed to realise this. But I also now carry a goal to physically bring grassroots people from different places together ... to facilitate an interaction that I think could be very powerful and really help guide a true action focused approach to addressing the real issues of our time in a realistic manner.

Karen - Nepal, Egypt and Italy

2007-05-31T19:47:00.000+12:00

From the Himalayan mountains of Nepal to the sands of Egypt, it continues to be an amazing journey even now. One of the things that stands out for me is the special meetings with all kinds of people, who all care about our world and its problems, all working in various ways to conserve resources and the environment. It's a real privilege to see the faces of listeners as we retell stories about other people and countries; problems and solutions. It's a real comfort to them to know other people are facing similar problems and finding solutions.

I also see it firing the imagination of our girls, the next generation, so I feel grateful for that and hope for the future ..How much more powerful a documentary would be with each person interviewed, reinforcing each other in so many countries and different languages. It's very exciting to be a part of. Gavin is doing a great job of linking people together for mutual support by simply listening, recording and sharing peoples stories about their local environments.

I had an amazing experience in Nepal and then slept in the loud silence of the desert, outside under the stars for the first time. I got up before sunrise to take photos and was mesmerised by the changes of light on the shapes of rocks in the White Desert and the horizon. Now we are in greenery like New Zealand again, in Umbria, Italy ... still with climatic problems and making positive connections.

Lena - Egypt & Italy

2007-05-31T19:41:00.000+12:00

Egypt was interesting. It was the one country where none of us had any idea what to expect there. We went and saw the Pyramids and for me it wasn't all that it's cracked up to be, personally I didn't see what the big deal was. But it was mind blowing to think that they accomplished such amazing architecture that long ago and that it lasted for so long.

Going to Bahariya Oasis was really worthwhile, we connected with some really nice people who were doing good things with the environment. Staying one night in the desert was also interesting, though I kept on expecting to see the sea over the next hill because of the sand. Ha! And after vowing never to spend another night sleeping on sand, here I found myself sleeping on the sand yet again. I had a pretty good sleep though. I know I shouldn't but nothing compares to staying on the beach in New Zealand, not even the desert.

At Sekem we also did some really good interviews. The teacher that we interviewed said that at home his children each have a special role to play. One is the Minister for Electricity and has to make sure that lights that aren't being used are switched off and the other is the Minister for Water and makes sure that everyone uses the water ecologically. I thought it was such a cool way to educate children in a way that is fun and interesting for them.

Well after 3 ½ months our whole family is all back together. Emma came and met us in Milan. It was kind of weird at first because we had been apart for so long and so much has happened in that time, but now it's all good. In Rome we got to go see the Colosseum for free because it was cultural week, that was awesome. It might just have been because there were so many people there at the time, but it was smaller than I imagined, maybe because it's a ruin; it would have been magnificent when it had just been finished. We also stumbled across the place where Julius Caesar was cremated. Rome has so many layers; all the different people who have lived there left a mark, and in places like the Colosseum, you can feel it is just so old. I know now what people mean when they say that New Zealand is still a young country in comparison.

Right now we are staying in lovely little place looking over a valley in the region of Umbria. For the first time since we left NZ we get to cook our own meals and are staying in a homely place. It's been so good just to relax as well even though we've gone out almost every day to explore around the area.

Emma - Italy and family

2007-05-31T19:35:00.000+12:00

Well since about a week ago I have joined the family in Milan.. it has been different but we have all gotten used to it now. My Italian has gotten better too and Dad is getting better so we get by. After Milan we went on the plane down to Rome which was awesome seeing the Colosseum and all the Roman ruins...it was quite an experience till I got a bit of sun stroke.

Now we are in Umbria in a little valley. It is beautiful here and the people are so energetic to learn what Dad has to share. I find that people and farmers here are so much more appreciative of Dad than some in New Zealand. One lady we encountered even remarked how she was glad he existed. Last night was the first interview I have been here for and it's really interesting to listen to a farmer who has probably never been given the chance to properly speak his thoughts and concerns to talk non stop pretty much... his worries with the water in the valley and what he does... and his thoughts on climate change.

It seems that people all over the world are aware of what is happening around them but just need someone to guide them to help themselves and others do the right thing for our world. I am happy to be helping and being a whole family again though I miss my friends in New Zealand and in Lugano very much. I have met the most amazing people and I will never forget any of it.

Alice - Egypt and Italy

2007-05-31T19:21:00.001+12:00

In Egypt we had a pretty good experience. One was going to see the Pyramids which was nice for me since I did a project on them ... what I didn't like though was people asking for money all the time.

The second one was going to Sekem which I liked as well because it was amazing to think they actually built a whole school out there and to know what good they were doing. And thirdly was going out to the desert which I enjoyed a lot ... for one thing that picture that Dad took of me with the planet Venus resting on my hand and to think Dad spontaneously took it without knowing it was there is pretty awesome. And I enjoyed sleeping under the stars for the the first time with sand underneath me!!

Getting to Milan was exciting because I couldn't wait to see Emma again after 3 ½ months of not seeing each other. It was fun in Milano walking around and stuff. One of the things I am really enjoying is learning about the Renaissance and seeing some of the things Leonardo da Vinci created in all his work.

Then in Rome it was great because we got to see the Colosseum and some of the old ruins that have been there for centuries. Anyway, after Rome we got our rental car which is great and drove to where we are now which is in a lovely valley in the countryside and there's a swimming pool, haha, and it's awesome.

22 May... And then there were 5!

2007-05-23T20:20:00.000+12:00

Just over a week ago, on 14 May, we arrived in Milan and next day Emma decided to join us, after three months at Origlio Steiner School near Lugano. It was wonderful to have her with us again. We are very grateful for Paolo and Iva who very kindly hosted us for 4 nights in Milan. It was a time for us to enjoy being a full family again, and to explore Milan a bit. Alice's class at Taikura Rudolf Steiner School has been studying mechanics and is soon to begin studying the Renaissance, focusing in part on the life and work of Leonardo da Vinci. So it seemed very appropriate to take her to the Leonardo da Vinci Museum of Science and Technology in Milan.

Alice in front of a scale model of an earth digger, created from drawings by Leonardo da Vinci.

On 18 May we all flew down to Rome, where we spent 3 nights and 2 days. For me this was another part of a personal journey that began in Egypt. My grandfather was in Egypt in WW1, and my father served in both Egypt and Italy in the latter part of WW2. Visiting the Colosseum and then the Palatine (the site of the main centre of historic Rome) brought back a very clear memory of my father talking about his time here. It was a place he had wanted to bring us all, a dream that he never realised in his life. This made it particularly memorable to be here with my family.

On Saturday (19 May) we decided to visit the Colosseum and to our very good fortune struck the tail end of a cultural week in Rome, which gave us free entry to both the Colosseum and Palatine. As we walked around the ruins of a civilisation that collapsed around 1500 years ago I reflected on the cycles of nature, the rise and fall of life, of civilisations. I wondered how many of the multitude of tourists there were consciously reflecting on this in the context of the current state of our modern world. The important message is to become conscious of the good things that are already rising that I believe offer us true guidance for the future.

Lena, Emma and Alice, enjoying being together and exploring the ruins of historic Rome.

And then there were 5 Kennys!

Walking through the ruins of the Palatine.

Italy, what can we say. Bellisima!

Yesterday (21 May) we came to a tiny place called Casa Vacanze Marilena la Cassella, in Lisciano Niccone Commune, Perugia Province, Umbria. Firstly we had to collect our lease car from near Rome airport, and I had to quickly adjust to driving a left hand drive car on the right side of the road on a fast moving motorway. After more than 3 months of flying, being on trains, being driven to places, this was quite a challenge. But I did well and here we are in Umbria!

We came to this place because it is en route to Firenze, where we are going next week, and they had a special half price offer for a weeks stay during May. I found it by searching www.agriturismo.com, a very useful website if you are coming to Italy.

After all the challenges since we left home on 8 February this is an incredibly welcome, and stunningly beautiful, haven. Last night, with the help of some other guests here, I talked to Guiseppe who owns this place with his wife Marilena. I talked briefly about our journey and my work. There is something very special about the environment here ... tree clad hills, small villages, grapes and olive trees in pockets on the slopes, cultivated land on the flats. I am sure that it is not all perfect, but there is a powerful sense of harmony with nature here. It is my hope that sometime this week, with a little help, I might be able to talk to and film interviews with some local people. At the very least I plan to do some filming in this beautiful landscape, even if interviews don't work out.

A room with a view, the beautiful harmonious landscape of Lisciano Niccone in Umbria, a beautiful haven after 3 ½ months of travel.

Heading for Umbria on Monday

2007-05-20T22:09:00.000+12:00

On Monday we are heading to Umbria. I have found a very nice farm stay (agriturismo) place that is costing only 299 Euros for a two bedroom apartment for 7 nights. It is a special deal for May... and is at least half cost. I don't know yet if we will make any good connections there and manage to add to our story, we'll wait and see. At the very least it will be nice to be in one place for a whole week and have a good rest... as well as see some of the special places in Umbria. On 28 May we head to Firenze (Florence) for a week, where I have a programme that has been organised by contacts of mine at the University of Florence.

(from Gavin in an email to Michael)

Egyptian Photo Album

2007-05-19T22:59:00.000+12:00

Egypt

Egypt 14 May 2007

2007-05-14T22:11:00.000+12:00

Before coming to Egypt we had no fixed plan. My principal contact was with Sekem. Before leaving New Zealand I thought perhaps we might spend some time in different parts of the Nile River and Delta. The Nile River is the life blood of Egypt, supporting the vast majority of the population. Instead, after visiting Sekem, I was compelled to travel into the Western Desert.

We spent 4 days and 3 nights in the desert. With our relatively limited time we only traveled to Bahariya Oasis, the closest of the oases to Cairo ... 360km and a 4 ½ hour drive. People at Sekem assisted by providing names of two people to visit. Being in the deserts of Egypt was such a powerful contrast to the mountains of Nepal ... but in some way there was also a connection, in the grandeur of the landscape and power of nature that both places conveyed.

At Bahariya Oasis we first met Ahmed Shawky and Corien Elstgeest from Elysium (see www.elysium.nu). Corien is from the Netherlands and moved to Bahariya 10 years ago. She is there is on a mission, working together with Ahmed and her partners in the Netherlands.

Ahmed Shawky and Corien Elstgeest, working together with a future vision for Bahariya Oasis.

A view of Elysium where Ahmed, Corien and others are working to realise their vision.
We were very grateful to meet these people who provided a welcome home for us in between our various activities and very kindly took us around Bahariya one afternoon.

Lena and Alice, enjoying some true relaxation time for one of the first times in the last 3 months.
Elysium is a relatively small initiative at present, but with a clear vision. They have developed a retreat where people can come and stay and experience the quiet and power of the desert environment. They also have aims to develop an educational and training facility to help develop sustainable future pathways for people living in the desert.

Another view of Elysium.
Life in the desert can't exist without water. At Bahariya Oasis we learned that there has been relatively little rain in the last 20 years, insufficient to recharge the groundwater that everyone relies on. At the same time there has been increased development and demand for water. In many places people are using pumps where they weren't needed in the past. People are digging deeper to get their water.

Ten years ago water was running freely from this well at Bahariya, as it had been for a long time before. Now this well is dry and has been replaced nearby by a much deeper well with a pumping station.
We also met We also met Mr Mohamed Rafaat, from Mendisha village, the son of ......... who have supplied Sekem with dates for the last 16 years. As he said, the desert is their home, it is their life. But everything they have depends on water. There is a very delicate balance here and evidence that it has tipped towards a situation of future water crises. In our short time with Ahmed and Corien we talked about the importance of acting now for the future and working to engage the community. This was a very good exchange, adding to our stories from different places, but also an opportunity to share ideas and encourage them in their work.

Views of one of the villages that comprise Bahariya Oasis.

Date palms are the main agricultural product from Bahariya.
On Saturday, our third day, we drove out from Bahariya to spend a night camping in the desert. We stopped in the Black Desert, where I climbed a peak to view an amazing scene of extinct volcanoes.

The Black Desert
Then on to a small oasis where we had lunch and a rest in the midday heat.

On the edge of the Black Desert, here your understand the true power and importance of water to life.

A modern 'mummy'!
In mid afternoon we drove on to a place called Crystal Mountain and then to the White Desert, where we set up camp for the night. Stunning, silent, beautiful starlit night. Marred slightly by obvious signs of human presence... plastic bottles thoughtlessly left in the desert sand... but a great experience to sleep in the desert under the stars. It was hard next day, driving back to Bahariya and then to the noise and pollution of Cairo.

How much do we care, with signs of our rubbish left everywhere?

Sunset in the White Desert.

A desert star!

A simple camp for sleeping under the stars.
In the end our time in Egypt seemed too short. There is a lot more that we need to know about changes happening in the desert, as much as in the mountains, with our rivers, our forests.

The greatest reward is the increased power we feel in sharing stories from other places and encouraging the people we meet to keep doing the good things they are engaged in. Making them aware that there are others in other places doing similar work is very rewarding.

Eygpt 9 May 2007

2007-05-10T07:37:00.000+12:00

We arrived in Egypt last Thursday and discovered that the next two days were the Egyptian weekend. So we spent time getting orientated on Thursday, took a taxi and walked around Islamic Cairo on Friday and visited the Pyramids on Saturday.

Scenes from Islamic Cairo

On Sunday morning we went to the Sekem (www.sekem.com) complex on the edge of Cairo. They are developing a University on this site. Here I met with Dr Zakaria El-Haddad, Professor of Agricultural Engineering and Executive Manager of the Egyptian Bio Dynamic Association. This was a very good meeting, with Dr El- Haddad recommending that I go to the Western Desert to meet some people there. While I was in this meeting Karen and the girls went to the Sekem shop and bought some very delicious, fresh, organic milk. The first real milk we had drunk in about 12 weeks, and a very welcome treat.

On Monday and Tuesday we went out to the Sekem farm. We arrived at 10.00am and went straight to a group of senior students and staff from the Sekem school. I gave a presentation on climate change and adaptation, including sharing some of the stories and lessons from our journey so far. Later in the day Angela, our principal host, suggested that we be at the main entrance to Sekem just before 5pm. She told us to imagine this place as desert, which is was 30 years ago and to reflect on the transformation. What was 70ha of desert has been transformed to an environment with trees, fields, a school, and several Sekem factories. In all there are about 1600 people who pass through the Sekem gates each day, students, teaching staff, Sekem factory workers. It is a remarkable transformation and clear proof of what human beings are capable of with clear vision and a strong will to turn the vision into reality.

Below: Scenes from Sekem showing the remarkable transformation of desert land to an environment that supports an abundance of life and positive human activity.

Here at Sekem I was talking to people who are already thinking and acting with a long-term future in mind. On Tuesday we filmed interviews with Angela and Gamal, both of whom have been at Sekem for about 20 years. These were both very good interviews that in many ways drew together different threads from the last 12 weeks. The clear lesson from Sekem is that we don't need crisis to change. Human beings have abundant capacity to develop positive, strong relationships with the natural environment. The choice is ours.

Below: Interviews with Angela and Gamal at Sekem provided a very strong and positive 'bringing together' of important threads from our journey so far.

In Cairo

2007-05-04T22:50:00.000+12:00

(from an email to Emma and Michael)

It's good to be here.... adjusting to a totally new environment, but we're liking it.

Last night we met one of my contacts... we went to this very "hip" place by the Nile river, under this huge sort-of Bedouin tent, wind blowing through, lights of Cairo around us, near full moon rising, lots of people smoking "hubble & bubble" pipes.... and some of the best food we've had in weeks.

Salim is coming back today, which is like Sunday here, and we're going into old Cairo with him to look around. Tomorrow we're meeting more people, Sunday probably to see the Pyramids of Giza, and then out to Sekem on Monday, probably Tuesday as well.

There'll be more meetings, including giving a talk to senior school students, and later on Sekem staff, on Monday.

In Cario

2007-05-04T07:40:00.000+12:00

The tavellers have arrived safely in Cairo.

a brief outline of travel plans

2007-05-02T20:44:00.000+12:00

WEDNESDAY 02 MAY 2007
Depart from Kathmandu on Thai Airways
Arrival time Bangkok
THURSDAY 03 MAY 2007
Depart from Bangkok on Thai Airways
0600 Arrival time Cairo
Own arrangements in Cairo until 14 May
MONDAY 14 MAY 2007
Depart from Cairo on Lufthansa
1850 Arrival time Frankfurt
2055 Depart from Frankfurt on Lufthansa
2205 Arrival time Milan
FRIDAY 18 MAY 2007
1230 Depart from Milan
1335 Arrival time Rome
SATURDAY 23 JUNE 2007
Depart from Paris
1115 Arrival time London Heathrow
Own arrangements in London until 07 July
SATURDAY 07 JULY 2007
Depart from London Heathrow
1257 Arrival time San Francisco
Transfer to your connecting flight
Depart from San Francisco on Air New Zealand
MONDAY 09 JULY 2007
0530 Arrival time Auckland
0925 Depart from Auckland on Air New Zealand
1025 Arrival time Napier Hastings

Lena - The Trek

2007-05-01T22:31:00.000+12:00

Before we left New Zealand, we were interviewed by the Hawkes Bay Today. The lady who talked to us asked me what I was most looking forward to on the trip and I said: seeing the Pyramids in Egypt. Well I'm still looking forward to that, we'll be in Egypt on Thursday, but the highlight for me so far has definitely been trekking around the Annapurna circuit for three weeks.

Before we left home we did a three day walk to try out all our gear and I was so unfit and got really worried about how I'd handle walking for three whole weeks.

I never imagined that it would be such a struggle and we'd go through so much, but it wouldn't have been the same without all the hardships. The worst for me was having all these people pass us on the third day walking, but we caught up in the end. I had been fighting the food poisoning that we got in Kathmandu the day before we left and it caught up on me big time; I could barely walk, let alone carry a bag, or walk up the hills! I was so grateful that I had Dad and Ali there to support me, as well as our guide, Karma, and the two porters who carried our packs, I couldn't have done it without them all.

At times it was like walking through a fairytale landscape from stories, it was so beautiful and magical, the photos we took honestly don't do justice to it. It wasn't just the landscape, but all the weird and wonderful people we met along the way. You know who you are. Mwahaha, just kidding....hehe

Anyway back to the story. First I walked slow because I was sick, and then once I was better I was still walking slow because we were getting into higher altitudes. It felt so surreal when Dad said we were at the same height as Ruapehu and walking along flat at that height. I even ran a bit just to say that I'd run at that altitude.

All the walking was leading up to going over Thorong La pass and once we were over, it was kind of like, Ok, now what? Sweet, we'll just have to keep on walking out the other side then.

The first side was way more special to me than the second side, not to say that we didn't have really awesome experiences there too, but once we left the mountains behind, nothing compared to having been amongst such magnificent presence.

The road was definitely a mood killer and we all were really angry and upset by it, but just focus on the good things right? I'm just glad we were able to do it before it was completed. All in all this is one thing I'll never forget for the rest of my life and wouldn't change it for the world.

2007-05-01T22:17:00.000+12:00

Tomorrow we leave Nepal after being here for just over a month. Yesterday I gave a presentation to the core climate change group in Kathmandu, with representatives from the National Trust for Nature Conservation (NTNC), WWF Nepal, IUCN, Winrock International and Practical Action.

The bulk of our time here has been spent walking the Annapurna circuit and doing what we could to interview local people along with dealing with illness and other challenges. Before we left I shared some information on the Annapurna Conservation Area Programme (ACAP). I think up to about 10 years ago this was a very strong programme for protection and enhancement of the Annapurna region.

The disruption with the Maoists and the assassination of the royal family has created greater instability and a weakening of efforts by ACAP and others. Because of associations with the royal family the ACAP presence has been significantly affected, for example the Maoists destroyed the ACAP offices in Ghandruk village three years ago. This political instability along with political pressure from China and India are some of the main reasons why the road is happening in the Annapurna region. My main message to the climate change group yesterday was the need to focus efforts on supporting wise, local leadership in developing and implementing future visions.

As I've already said here, we found good local people who simply need more support to encourage reafforestation programmes. In villages like Marpha and Ghandruk there are strong local communities at present, but they are facing challenges. Now is the time to act. We're not going to solve the major issues of our time sitting around tables. We truly need to get beyond the talk and focus our collective efforts on positive, proactive change. Ecological restoration is a fundamental necessity, everywhere. As Michung Gurung from Thorong Phedi said to me, if we could channel things away from guns and wars into planting trees we might actually make some serious progress towards a truly sustainable future. As simple as it seems I believe it truly is this simple ... if only we can get enough people to be more aware and focused on small, simple, practical actions.

Tomorrow we leave for Cairo, via Bangkok. After some days of anxiety I have finally heard from my contact in Egypt. I have been communicating with people from Sekem (see www.sekem.com) a very strong and positive initiative in Egypt that I am very interested to learn more about and share. Egypt will be very interesting and another dimension to the story, after 11 weeks in Asia. So far we've travelled from the south coast of Thailand, to hill tribes in the north, by the Mekong, to the lowlands, then on to Viet Nam from north to south and the Mekong Delta, and to Nepal walking high into the Himilayas. Now to an arid, desert region and the Nile basin. We only have 10 days there, enough to develop some impressions and meet some good people.

The Trek by Alice

2007-05-01T22:10:00.000+12:00

The first day trekking was very hard. As everyone knows we had all got food poisoning in Kathmandu and that was not cool. So anyway the first day was the worst for me!!

As the days went by I got used to the environment and where I was and it helped me feel better as well to think that I was following in my teachers footsteps. As the landscape changed and we got to higher altitude, we experienced swelling on all our fingers and Dad's were the worst. We began to see snowy mountains and beautiful clear blue sky.

Along the way we saw lots of donkeys with heavy loads. Going over Thorong La was totally awesome and I just remember thinking, just keep on walking, one step in front of the other and slowly but surely we reached the top. I have to say, I felt like being sick, but I didn't. Then I place a stone on the pile at the top and Dad took a photo of me and Lena placing it on there.

Then we slowly made our way down the other side. For the rest of the journey I kept at a good pace. In Jomsom we met up with Mum and it was cool to see her again. From all the time we have been trekking we met some really cool people.

Trekking in the end was definitely my highlight of this journey and there's going to be way more stuff that is going to be really cool, but trekking was definitely the first for me. Now I know I can do anything and I believe in myself more for that.

Nepal and The Trek

2007-04-30T22:28:00.000+12:00

Putting together the story of the past three weeks has been a little patchy at this end. For this I apologise. If you go to the Nepal link on the right you can follow the story - apologies that the time line is a little haphazard - I will rectify this and add photos as I am able over the next couple of days.

Michael

28 March 2007

2007-04-28T23:00:00.000+12:00

Today we went out from Kathmandu to the village of Lalitpur, in one of the hill areas that surround the Kathmandu Valley. Here we were assisted by Sarad Ghimire, a recent University graduate. This is his home village, a place where he grew up with the trees. Sixteen years ago the government gave the people of Lalitpur 96ha of land to manage. Initially there was scrub and pine trees, now there is a diverse regenerating forest with increasing numbers of birds and other animal species. With Sarad as translator I interviewed Mr Mani Ram Ghimire who is Chairman of the community forest management committee. There are 60 households involved in managing this common land and all are realising the many benefits of the regenerating forest, including a cooler local climate, fresher air, cleaner water, and importantly a more readily available firewood supply. The latter is carefully managed. The success of this programme is now serving as a model for other communities. It was certainly very refreshing to see such a positive initiative happening on the edge of Kathmandu, where there are multiple problems with issues such as air and water pollution, rapid population growth, urban spread, loss of tree cover. With ecological restoration now well underway the community of Lalitpur is now exploring potential economic developments that are in harmony with their local environment.

After getting to Jomsom

2007-04-26T21:15:00.000+12:00

I saw some amazing views of the mountain peaks and ranges, donkey trains with bells jangling, villiages, and some awesome experiences, like crossing very high suspension bridges, with rushing water VERY far below us, (very scary for me who is not keen on heights). Also scrambling down steep mountain sides on narrow donkey tracks also scary for me.

Highlights were the flight to Jomsom, all the above, seeing the different villiages and talking to Tibetan women, seeing the friendly strength of the people, seeing the sunrise over the Pokhara mountain ranges and the beautiful lake and bushclad hills, the jeep, the bus ride back to Pokera, stopping at the shrineat the top of the highest point of the ranges between Pokhara and Kathmandu and seeing the bull statue and talking to the old man weaving by the shrine.

I would recommend it to anyone, even though I came back a bit earlier, myself. I know Gavin and the girls have some awesome experiences as well.

One week left in friendly Kathmandu. I love the unique Nepali art and architecture, and want to see more places. Then off to Egypt then we see Emma in Milan for 2 days (I can't wait).

The Trek in photos

2007-04-26T08:43:00.000+12:00

Nepal April 2007

back to the world

2007-04-24T20:39:00.000+12:00

We are back to 'civilisation' after 19 days walking in the Himilayas. Over this time I've managed just over 3 1/2 hours of filming time and around 1000 photos. I filmed less than I hoped, but believe that we have captured some quality material. From 2 months travelling and talking to local people we now have about 20 hours of film, about half of this from Thailand. It is already clear to me that there are some special people and special things happening in Thailand. Back to Nepal. Here are some reflections from the last 19 days.

We've had an amazing journey. Our experiences up to and including the crossing of Thurong La Pass is already documented here. Despite our challenges with illness we managed to experience and appreciate some stunning landscapes as we followed the Marsyangdi river towards its source. Early on in the journey there was clear evidence of deforestation. The building of the road also became a part of the thinking and reflections on present and future changes. As we moved into higher altitudes we came to people who are originally of Tibetan origin. My impression is that these are very strong people who possess a strong connection with their local environment, with rivers, forest, mountains. Not all are as aware as others, but it seemed to me that there is strong local leadership in places such as Chame and Manang. These people who are providing leadership need to be supported as much as possible. Our high point was Thurong La Pass, but the night before at Thurong Phedi was something special. Michung Gurung had a clarity, directness, and practical wisdom that I believe can only come from living with the power of high mountains and appreciating the true power of nature.

Beyond Thorong La our experiences were quite different. We no longer had this huge high altitude challenge ahead of us. We also struck a level of development that surprised me. The building of a road is far more advanced on this side. The more I walked, the more I listened and saw, the more I became very upset by this development. It is, and will continue to, impact on local communities, local economies and on the environment. Nature will prevail in a region that is already prone to erosion, landslides, flooding. They are building the road, by hand, through some very unstable terrain. It can't and won't survive in my view... certainly not without a huge and ever increasing input of resources. If I put climate change into the mix then I see very big challenges, with communities and environments that are becoming less self sufficient and resilient. Where is the hope? Beyond Jomson we came to the beautiful village of Marpha, now by-passed by the road. There we spoke to a local community leader. The road predominated in our discussions but he also talked about the strength and positive actions of their community to protect the local environment. After Marpha we had a long walk down through the Kali Gandaki valley to the village of Ghasa. For most of this walk we managed to avoid the road. From Ghasa to Tatopani the stupidity of the road became too much for me... so out came the camera as I filmed some of what I was seeing and shared my thoughts. This road was becoming a powerful metaphor for all the bad decision making in the world that ignores the obvious power of nature and benefits of working in harmony with local environments and wisdom of local people. From Tatopani we climbed to Goropani, watched the sunrise over Poon Hill and then literally ran through the rhododendron forest to the small village of Tadopani. It wasn't until we came to Ghandruk, a village of Gurung (Ghurkha) people, that I managed another interview. This is a large village, around 6000 people, with many challenges but very good community organisation. With early support from the Annapurna Conservation Area Programme they have a strong community forestry programme and other positive initiatives. After talking with Kisam Gurung, a local leader, we walked around the village with his eldest daughter. Alisha Gurung is only 10 years old but clearly very bright, very socially aware and very strong minded. A future leader. A young tree that has potential to grow tall and strong. It was a pleasure to meet this family. This was the end of our trekking. After 19 days we were ready to finish and yesterday walked from Ghandruk out to the road end at Birethanti, then to Pokhara. End of one journey...ready to begin another!!

So much that we've seen, heard and learnt over the last couple of months. Here is a story worth telling, worth hearing, worth doing something about if enough people begin to care enough.

Safely back in Kathmandu

2007-04-23T18:07:00.000+12:00

An email from Karen in Kathmandu to Emma in Switzerland

Hi Emmy,

Safely back in Kathmandu now, I had a good 6 hour bus ride to Pokhara, which was a beautiful place. I stayed by the lake and read my book, walked around and got befriended by 2 little boys who didn't realize I couldnt speak Nepali, but loved looking at my map.

Stayed in a lovely hotel called the Moonlight. Joined Gav, Lena and Ali, in Jomsom, ( they will be back here in 2 / 3 days). I loved the flight to Jomsom, saw fantastic views of the mountain peaks above the clouds, and little villiages down below, like little square boxes and took photos with my little camera. I had a good but scary flight on a small 16 seater ( I think) and was met by Karma our guide.

The others were just getting up at 7.30 am, then a quick repack and we were on our way after breakfast. We quickly walked to the road and onto the river bed of the Kali Gandaki valley, scrambling over river stones for 11/2 hours,and got to Marpha, a lovely villiage, which I took photos of from the air. Gav interviewed a man there and he showed us up the hill/ range behind the villiage. It was a mad scramble up sheer cliffs, very scary for me especially in the high wind. The others are used to this by now. Ali even climbed in her jandals.

The next day we walked for 6 hours, it was very exausting for me as I wasn't used to it, 4 hours were good, but the last 2 were very tiring, limping with my blisters down sheer cliff faces on tiny goat trails down to the deepest gorge.

Happy Nepali New Year

2007-04-16T01:10:00.000+12:00

I'm safe in Pocora, Gav is now in Jomsom so fly to meet them tomorrow from bye 4 now love k

The Trek - 15 April 2007

2007-04-15T23:00:00.000+12:00

We walked to Jomsom today.... more later!

The Trek - 14 April 2007

2007-04-14T23:00:00.000+12:00

Karma and I barely slept. The altitude and cold, dry air were affecting my breathing and I was concerned about Lena. Karma was worrying about Lena all through the night.

About 4.10am I had Karma outside my door. We went and checked on Lena. She was feeling OK, no more headaches or vomiting. The decision was to get up and go.

I can barely put in words the challenge of this day. The long, slow, 1000m climb to Thorong La Pass (over 5400m). The sense of relief and emotion when we reached the top. The sheer guts and determination from Lena. The incredible strength of Ali, who at 13 years old has to be one of the youngest foreigners ever to do this crossing ... who Karma originally didn't believe could do it when he heard her age, but he did believe when he saw what good walkers both girls are. And for me, an end to any doubt I had about my ability to do this at 48 years old and completing something I had originally been drawn to 24 years ago.

All downhill now, a long 1600m descent to Muktinath. What an incredible sense of relief and accomplishment!

The Trek - 13 April 2007

2007-04-13T23:00:00.000+12:00

Today we walked from Manang to Thorong Phedi, about 7 hours walking and a 1000m gain in altitude. Karma's strategy was to get us up and over Thorong La pass and down again as quickly as possible.

This day literally became the high point of the journey for me. At 4500m altitude, in the middle of the Himilayas I met a straight talking Nepali/Tibetan man, Michung Gurung, owner of the Thorong Base Camp Lodge and Manang farmer. I had been told about this person by Bhim, the ACAP ranger in Manang. But it had been a long, hard day, and I was feeling the cold and altitude as well as needing to be with the girls, particularly with Lena who had a bit of a headache (a high altitude effect). While the girls went to bed I noticed this man outside my room, lighting a small fire and clearly beginning a small ceremony for the Gods. I went to get Karma Lama as this person fascinated me and I wanted to talk to him. It turned out this was Michung Gurung, the lodge owner and person Bhim had told me I should talk to. It turned out I didn't need Karma to translate. This man spoke good English and had plenty to say. I was blown away. After all the challenges of the last two months, after the incredible challenges since we began trekking... here I was high in the Himilayas talking to a man who was worth listening to. We went into his living quarters, next to my room. It was dark, but there was just enough light from the battery powered fluorescent light to film. Here I was on my own, the girls in bed, Karen back in Kathmandu. I filmed about 8 mins of interview at 4500m.

This has to be a voice that many people need to hear ... a straight talking man who says that the hope for the world lies in rich people putting an end to greed, an end to spending money on weapons and wars. If we turned this money to reafforestation everywhere then we might have a chance of restoring ecological balance and health to the world and of turning things around. The big problem, says Michung Gurung, is that there is too much talking in the world and not enough doing. His view is that we need to put money and resources into the hands of the doers who can provide real leadership for positive change.

Just as this amazing time came to an end... back to earth as Ali came to get me. Lena was feeling sick. Her headache turned to a bout of vomiting. We had real concerns. Karma and I decided we would see how Lena was during the night and morning and decide then whether to head for Thorong La Pass or not.

The Trek - 12 April 2007

2007-04-12T23:00:00.000+12:00

A good day! Ali had slept well and no more diarrhoea! We were all able to appreciate the stunning mountain scenery here and also meet and film interviews with some local people.

Bhim, the ACAP conservation officer was very good. He accompanyed us down to some local fields where we filmed people at work. We then walked over to Gangapurna lake. This lake has formed over the last 20 years or so from the melting of the Gangapurna glacier. After lunch we met with Sonam Chhiring Ghale and Sonam Chhiring Gurung, both farmers and lodge owners. These are both smart farmers, who talked about more erratic rainfall patterns over the last 20 years, which have resulted in an irrigation scheme supported by ACAP. Big issues are declining snow levels and loss of forest cover. They can't control the loss of snow and the melting of the Gangapurna glacier but there is potential to manage forest cover. However this requires support to introduce fencing to control animals that presently free-range and to protect trees that are planted.

In Manang - a quick email from Gavin

2007-04-12T21:40:00.000+12:00

Hi All

This is a very brief message from Manang, 3500+m alt. We're all OK after dealing with after effects of food poisoning from Kathmandu and some diarrhoea along the way. Today has been a rest day here, adjusting to the altitude. Tomorrow we will be aiming for Thorong Phedi, but may stop before there if necessary.... then Thorong La pass!! Karma our guide has been brilliant.

I've just interviewed two local farmers who are also lodge owners. There is a local glacier that is melting and rainfall patterns have changed. They are working to find solutions to rainfall changes, but glacier melting they can't control.

More later as this is costly from a very remote connection.

Love to all
Gavin, Lena, Ali

From Karen in Kathmandu

2007-04-12T18:28:00.000+12:00

It's a beautiful day here this morning, after last night when we had another thunder and lightening storm. I was listening to a street party with live music right outside the hotel room, but after cheers, it went quiet with a power cut over the whole city it seemed to me. The music was good too. I haven't heard how Gavin and the girls are going yet, but hope to any day. I am sure they are loving their mountain adventures.

I have been wondering the streets, getting lost among the tourists, looking at all the beautiful hand crafts for sale. I would love to buy lots of things but it would be hard to carry them around and back to New Zealand. As Gavin has already said the people who are looking after us in Nepal are great, Karma, Gavin's guide on their trek right now, (who was also Alice's teachers guide), and Chandra, the general manager of Independent Himalayan Adventure Ltd. have both been excellent and so kind looking after us for our time here, and especially when we were sick.

Chandra took time out from his busy work schedule to take me around the Monkey Temple, which I really enjoyed seeing. I would recommend anyone who wants to come here to trek in Nepal, to go through them.

The people are lovely and friendly here , even if it is a busy tourist area. I enjoyed exploring the local second hand bookshop and meeting some interesting people who obviously have a great love of books. I also got asked to listen to see which bell sounded the best by another teacher, who worked in the international school in Bangkok. I hope she liked her choice in the end.

I haven't done too much sight seeing as I have been sick, but am almost better at the moment. Its been very good for me to stay close to the hotel and relax. More later when I come back from meeting up with Gavin and the girls on 25th.

I bus to Polera then fly to Jomsom to meet them which I am looking forward to.

The Trek - 11 April 2007

2007-04-11T23:00:00.000+12:00

The challenges of the journey continued with Ali having diarrhoea in the night and again in the morning! This was a concern as from now on we were getting into seriously higher altitudes, where altitude sickness is a real risk. Ali was incredibly strong today, making it to Manang despite everything. I feel the sheer, almost indescribable, majesty of the mountains we were now among and the incredible power of nature we were feeling had a real strengthening effect on Ali. Despite all challenges of illness so far it was hard not to feel this power and energy around us. The biggest concern was when she started having nose bleeds just short of Manang. Number one priority when we got to Manang was to get on top of her diarrhoea, which we managed to do. Thank goodness tomorrow was a rest day! Time for Ali to recover and also for us to adjust more to the altitude.

What a stunning place, with the Annapurna Himal spread out above us!

While Ali and Lena rested I went down the road to the Manang District HQ of ACAP, where I met Bhim Prasad Upadhyay, conservation officer. We arranged to meet again with his manager next morning.

The Trek - 10 April 2007

2007-04-10T23:00:00.000+12:00

I was better today, but still a bit weak. We walked down to the local Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) office where we met Sherjung Gurung, the local conservation assistant. At short notice Sherjung managed to call in Tashi Dhindu Lama, Chairman of the Forest Management sub-committee in Chame. He talked about declining snow levels and the importance of forest conservation. He saw good and bad things with less snow. Less snow and higher temperatures means more crops can be grown and more grass for grazing. But bare rock is not good, it makes the mountain gods unhappy, it makes those local people who respect and understand their environment unhappy.

This interview inspired me and gave me real confidence that all the challenges of this journey so far would be worth the effort. I felt much better as we walked from Chame in the morning sunshine, with pine forest around us and stunning mountains above. We reached lower Pisang in good time.

The Trek - 9 April 2007

2007-04-09T23:00:00.000+12:00

Just as the girls were right, I came down with diarrhoea! I thought it had been tough until now, supporting the girls and hoping at some point I would make a few more connections to do more filming. But this was perhaps my toughest day as I drew on my reserves to get to Chame. We made it and I collapsed into bed.

The Trek - 8 April 2007

2007-04-08T23:00:00.000+12:00

Finally we were all feeling good. Lena was determined for us to make up for lost time. It was a long day of walking as we tried to get to Dharapani. In the end we stopped at Karte, about 30 mins short of Dharapani. We'd made up 2 ½ hours, which was very good going.

Attempts to connect with local people and do more filming were on hold for the time being.

Lena rowing on the Ganges at Varanasi

2007-04-08T18:57:00.000+12:00

Lena is, of course, a rower having represented Hawkes Bay at Lake Karapiro two years running.

There are more Varanasi photos here ....

India

The Trek

2007-04-08T18:28:00.000+12:00

ANNAPURNA CIRCUIT

The classic route along the Marshyangdi River, over the Thorong La (5416m) and descent of the Kali Gandaki Valley-21 days

INTRODUCTION

This is a magnificent trek which follows the Marshyangdi Khola from the subtropical lowlands to the Manang basin, and then crosses the Thorong La before descending to the deepest gorge in the world, the Kali Gandaki. The circuit of the Annapurna range is rich in variety and vistas, from the lush green rice paddies of the Marshyangdi to the arid high-altitude Himalayan interior, and it's ecological and cultural diversity provides the complete trekking experience. Along the way, the beautiful mountain scenery and fascinating village life will keep you enthralled, day after day.

Day by day Itinerary

Day 01: Drive to Beshisahar & Trek to Khudi
Day 02: Trek to Bahundanda
Day 03: Trek to Chyamche
Day 04: Trek to Dharapani
Day 05: Trek to Chame
Day 06: Trek to Pisang
Day 07: Trek to Manang
Day 08: Rest Day Manang
Day 09: Trek to Ledar
Day 10: Trek to Thorong Phedi
Day 11: Trek to Muktinath
Day 12: Trek to Jomsom
Day 13: Trek to Kalopani
Day 14: Trek to Tatopani
Day 15: Trek to Ghorepani
Day 16: Rest Day Ghorepani
Day 17: Trek to Tadapani
Day 18: Trek to Landrung
Day 19: Trek to Dhampus
Day 20: Trek/Drive to Pokhara
Day 21: Drive/Flight back to Kathmandu

Detailed Itinerary

31 March 2007. Saturday: Kathmandu. Arrival Day.

01 April 2007. Sunday: Kathmandu. Full Day Rest. Visit Around by self.

02 April 2007: Monday: Kathmandu. Meet Dr. Siddhartha and Damini.

03 April 2007. Tuesday: Kathmandu. Sightseeing tour of Patan Durbar Square and Bungmati.

04 April 2007. Wednesday: Sightseeing of Pashupatinath, Bouddhanath and Swayambhunath.

05 April, 2007. Thursday. DRIVE TO BESI SAHAR & Trek to KHUDI [790m]
We drive along the Kathmandu-Pokhara Highway to Dumre and then follow the rough road by the Marshyangdi River to Beshisahar [760m] approximately 6 hours drive.

We start our first day's short trek from Beshisahar, turning right at the canal on the outskirts of the village and descending the narrow path to the Pam Khola. We then cross the stream and climb to the village of Denauti with its striking red-walled houses. From here we descend to the banks of the Marshyangdi Khola and then follow the trail through rice paddies and subtropical forests to the Gurungs village of Khudi, our first night stop.

06 April, 2007. Friday: TREK TO BAHUNDANDA [1310m]
Leaving Khudi we pass a school and a forest nursery as the trail continues northwards up the Marshyangdi Valley. After crossing a suspension bridge at Bhulbule, the trail passes a cascading waterfall and as we traverse the rice terraces the views of Manaslu are magnificent. Following a gentle incline we come to the village of Ngadi with its shops and teahouses. From here, the trail continues to ascend towards Bahundanda. Bahundanda literally means "hill of the Brahmins" and it is the most northerly Brahmin settlement in the Marshyangdi Valley. It is situated on a long ridge and we camp in terraced fields near the village.

07 April, 2007. Saturday: TREK TO CHYAMCHE via JAGAT [1290m]
A steep trail descends from Bahundanda, through rice terraces, before crossing a stream at the bottom of a small waterfall. It then climbs again and traverses the hillside high above the river before reaching the village of Hani Gaon. Ahead, the Marshyangdi valley forms a steep V-shape, and we follow the winding mountain path down through Syange and along the river for some distance. The trail then climbs steeply and the path is cut into the sheer cliff-face some 200-300m above the riverbed. Eventually we descend to the stone village of Jagat, situated on a shelf which juts into the precipitous Marshyangdi valley. We continue our descends until it almost reaches the river and then begins to climb again through a forest. The sheer cliff on the opposite bank plunges downward but this side is also steep. When the climb ends, we follow a level track to Chyamje, which is marked by a magnificent waterfall on the opposite bank

08 April, 2007: Sunday TREK TO DHARPANI [1920m]
From the Chyamche, after descending to the river and crossing a suspension bridge, we begin a climb to Sattale on a path so steep that it seems one slip would send you hurtling down into the valley. We continue on an undulating path above the river, and at one point, where a tributary flows in from the opposite bank, the main river becomes covered with huge boulders that hide the water. Climbing the zigzag path to the top of the hill, we see the level, plain of Tal before us. Though it is enclosed by cliffs, the level area looks reassuring after the harrowing mountain paths just traveled on. We descend to a grassy riverbank which leads to Tal with its hotels and teahouses. Beyond Tal, the valley narrows and the path becomes high and winding, and in several areas hewn from the rock itself. Beyond the small village of Karte, there is a bit more cliff-walking before the path drops again to the river. We cross a suspension bridge, and climb the short distance to the stone kani marking the entrance to Dharapani.

09 April, 2007. Monday: TREK TO CHAME [2630m]
As we cut through a narrow field from the village, the Dudh Khola, which originates from the south face of Manaslu, enters on the opposite bank. The Marshyangdi then veers to the left, and as Annapurna II becomes visible ahead, we arrive at Bagarchhap, a Bhote village with prayer flags fluttering in the breeze. Continuing to climb through forests of pine and oak, we pass through Danakyu before coming to a thundering waterfall. Further on, the Marshyangdi Khola enters a gorge and the path consists of steep stone steps. Pausing for breath, we can look back for views of Manaslu. When the steep incline ends we follow a path amid magnificent rhododendrons to Ratamron and then continue on a gently rising path, crossing a stream before entering a pine forest. We then cut across a loose hillside to the hamlet of Kotho from where we can look straight up at nearby Annapurna II - a sight convincing us that we are deep in the Himalayan Mountains! From here the trail climbs through a fir and pine forest to Chame where there are government offices, shops, and hotels. Chame is the administrative headquarters for the Manang district.

10 April, 2007. Tuesday: TREK TO PISANG [3190m]
With Lamjung Himal [6893m] sparkling in the morning sun, we set off for Pisang. The mountain disappears as we climb the path up the valley, passing a huge apple orchard. We continue through a fir and pine forest, climbing to a high, rocky area as the opposite bank becomes an impassable cliff. From this point the valley becomes extremely steep-sided as we follow the path to Bratang. In the past this was the military station for troops who fought against the Khampa tribal revolution, but the dilapidated buildings are all that remain of that era. A short climb from the village brings us to a rock-strewn area where we cross a wooden bridge and follow a high, winding path, before crossing back to the right bank again. We now walk through a pine forest and as the forest ends, the valley changes from a V-shape to a gentle U-shape, opening up a wonderful vista before us. We can see the east peak of Annapurna II as well as Pisang Peak to the north-east. Continuing on, we come to a long Mani wall by a bridge and the lower village of Pisang.

11 April, 2007. Wednesday: TREK TO MANANG [3520m]
Beyond Pisang, the trail climbs a steep ridge which affords good views of the Manang valley and Tilicho peak. Descending past Manang's airstrip at Hongde, we come to a level area from where the north-east face of Annapurna III rises majestically above us. From the wide plains of the Sabje Khola Valley, Annapurna IV [7525m] also becomes visible. Just beyond this point we cross the considerably reduced flow of the Marshyangdi Khola via a wooden bridge to the tiny village of Mungji. Cultivated fields appear on both sides of the path and off to the right, below a craggy mountain, we can see the village of Bryaga with its splendid monastery. Large chortens and Mani walls abound and the tall peaks of the Himalaya spread out before us - Annapurna II, Annapurna III, Annapurna IV, Gangapurna [7455m] and, to the rear, Tilicho Peak [7134m] After a short steep climb we reach Manang which is a surprisingly large village for this remote mountain region. We camp here for the night, amidst the fluttering prayer flags which adorn the houses.

12 April, 2007. Thursday: REST DAY IN MANANG [3520m]
An important rest and acclimatization day today before crossing the Thorong La. There are optional day walks such as crossing the river to see the tremendous ice-fall coming down from the Annapurnas, or climbing high above the village for a full panorama of the Annapurna range and the Manang Valley. There is also a Himalayan Rescue Association [HRA] aid post in the village which makes an interesting and educational visit. This day we may visit around Tilicho Gaon too.

13 April, 2007. Friday: TREK TO LETDAR [4250m]
From Manang, we climb to the next village of Tengi, with the magnificent Annapurna Himal in view all the way, while behind us we can see Peak 29 and Himalchuli in the distance. We are now past the tree line and the vegetation consists of alpine grasses and scrub juniper. Climbing the path past the summer village of Gunsang, we cross the Gundon Khola via a wooden bridge. From here we can see ahead the mountains surrounding the Thorong La which we will cross tomorrow. The trail is up and down as the elevation gradually increases and we soon enter an alluvial delta where there are yak pastures. An hour beyond this, we come to the small settlement of Ledar.

14 April, 2007. Saturday: TREK TO THORUNG PHEDI [4500m]
Leaving Ledar, we climb gradually to a ridge before descending to the headwaters of the Marshyangdi and crossing via a covered wooden bridge. After a short ascent up the mountain path on the right bank, we follow a narrow trail across an unstable screen slope and then descend to Thorong Phedi.

15 April, 2007. Sunday: TREK TO MUKTINATH [3800m]
An early start today for our crossing of Thorong La [5416m]. The trail becomes steep immediately on leaving camp but as this trail has been used by local people for hundreds of years the path is well defined. The gradient then eases and after around 4 hours of steady climbing we reach the chorten and prayer flags of the pass. The views are dramatic to say the least, from the snow covered mountains above, to the head of the Kali Gandaki valley below and the brown and purple hills of Mustang which are spread out before us. The descent to Muktinath is a knee pounding 1600m but it's compensated for with excellent views of Dhaulagiri. Eventually the moraines give way to grassy slopes before a pleasant walk along the Jhong Khola Valley to Muktinath and its shrines and temple.

16 April, 2007. Monday: TREK TO JOMSOM [2713m]
Descend gradually through fields and poplar groves, then into the Kali Gandaki river valley. Follow the valley southwards to Jomsom. The Kali Gandaki valley here is called the Thak Khola, from the ethnic group the Thakalis, the main inhabitants of this area.

17 April, 2007. Tuesday: TREK TO KALOPANI [2530m]
Descend to Marpha, a lovely village of whitewashed houses and fertile fields. Continue down the Kali Gandaki reaching the old Thakali trading centre of Tukuche. As the trail continues, the Himalayan rainshadow end and open spaces make way for coniferous forest and Kalopani (2560m.) From here there are spectacular 360 degree views of Dhaulagiri and the Annapurnas high above.

18 April, 2007. Wednesday: TREK TO TATOPANI [1160m]
Our trail descends steeply through forests to Ghasa, the last Thakali village and the southern-most limit of Tibetan Buddhism. We enter the steepest and narrowest part of the gorge shortly after Ghasa and at the hamlet of Rupse a magnificent waterfall tumbles down beside the trail. Continuing on we come to Dana, a Magar village from where the large peak of Annapurna South can be seen across the valley. The trail then descends to Tatopani where apple pie awaits and we can bathe in hot springs at the side of the river.

19 April, 2007. Thursday: TREK TO GHOREPANI [2775m]
A short distance downstream from Tatopani, we cross the river on a large suspension bridge and leave the Kali Gandaki behind. After passing through the villages of Shikha and Chitre, we begin to climb through the forest to Deurali, a 2834m pass from which there are excellent views of Dhaulagiri, Nilgiri, Annapurna I, Annapurna South, and Hiunchuli. Just 10 minutes beyond the pass is the village of Ghorepani. Ghorepani literally means "horse water" and is a welcome watering spot for the teams of mules which ply the route between Pokhara and Jomsom.

20 April, 2007. Friday: GHOREPANI REST [2775m]
This day we hike up to Poon Hill [3210m] and look very nice view of mountains the whole Annapurna Range. And back to Ghorepani for Rest.

21 April, 2007. Saturday: TREK TO TADAPANI [2590m]
The day from Ghorepani to Tadapani is really fantastic. We have to walk by Forest. And there you have to cross Deurali and Banthanti. Your trekking would be around 6 hours.

22 April, 2007. Sunday: TREK TO LANDRUNG [1640m]
From Landrung, you can trek to Ghandrung a really nice Gurungs Village. Most of houses are Ex Gurkhas. From Ghandrung you can trek down to Modi Khola and from the Khola trek to Landrung.

23 April, 2007. Monday: TREK TO DHAMPUS [1770m]
After breakfast begin your trek to Dhampus. You will cross many villages Tolka, Bichok, Bhedikharka, Deurali, and Pothana on the way.

24 April, 2007. Tuesday: TREK/DRIVE TO POKHARA [820m]
After breakfast we begin out ending trek to Phedi. It will take us less than an hour and then drive to Pokhara. **

25 April, 2007. Wednesday: DRIVE/FLIHT BACK TO KATHMANDU [1310m]
The short but spectacular flight or drive takes us back to Kathmandu for a well earned rest

25 March some more reflections from Gavin

2007-04-08T18:23:00.000+12:00

It is difficult to write a brief summary of our time in Viet Nam and what we observed and experienced. There are very strong contradictions in the relationship between people and the environment. Viet Nam is developing rapidly. The negative side of this are large open cast mines as we observed in Thai Nguyen, intensification of agriculture and the negative consequences of this as we observed in the Mekong. There is no apparent focus on the appropriateness and consequences of such developments. On the other hand there are official programmes to protect and enhance the environment, many of which are supported by NGOs and foreign government aid programmes. With people offering contacts and then not helping us at all it became impossible for us to see any of the more positive initiatives. However, informally, we found evidence of people acting and working positively for the future in their local communities.

If I think about the challenges posed by climate change in the context of the above then it is clear to me that solutions won't come easily for Viet Nam. Some of the government programmes, such as reafforestation efforts, are having positive impacts as we saw locally in Hue. However, in the 'rice basket' of Viet Nam, the Mekong Delta, the challenges will be very great. There are no easy solutions there. Before we came to Viet Nam our Thai friends expressed concern about intensification of rice production and we heard about the consequences of this. There are areas already affected by drought and seasonal effects of salinisation. Insect pest problems, pollution of waterways, erosion of canal banks, are all local issues that will be further compounded by climate change. The push for increased rice production, with three crops a year in many places now, is not sustainable with these multiple challenges.

The Viet Nam situation is in strong contrast to the growing momentum of the self sufficient economy approach in Thailand. People there, albeit a minority still, are awakening to the consequences of unsustainable practices and there is a groundswell for change, along with a growing awareness of the challenges posed by climate change. In Viet Nam the pressure for economic development is creating all sorts of tensions. The most positive impression I carry is the natural warmth and wisdom of the rural people we encountered. This is where the real hope lies for Viet Nam in my view, if positive ways can be found to empower these people and somehow minimise or overcome the real desperation for money that is so evident to a foreigner in the urban areas. I believe the lessons we carried from Thailand could be of great benefit to Viet Nam.

4 April - looking forward to our trek

2007-04-08T18:12:00.000+12:00

I thought it would be useful to share some information about the area of Nepal that we will be in for the next 3 weeks. The information I have comes from a booklet given to me yesterday by Dr Siddhartha from the National Trust for Nature Conservation (NTNC, www.ntnc.org.np). This trust was formerly known as the King Mahendra Trust for Nature Conservation and was established in 1982. Over the last two decades it has undertaken over 200 projects on nature conservation, biodiversity as well as cultural heritage protection, ecotourism, and sustainable development.

The Annapurna Conservation Area Project, launched in 1986, is the largest undertaking of the NTNC. The Annapurna region is the first Conservation Area and is the largest protected area in Nepal. “It covers an area of 7,629 sq km and is home to over 100,000 local residents of different ethnic, cultural and linguistic groups. ACAP is rich in biodiversity and is a treasure house for many plant and animal species.” It has one of the world's deepest gorges, the Kali Gandaki Gorge, which is 3 miles long and 1.5 miles wide. “The region contains the world's largest rhododendron forest in Ghorepani and the world's highest lake, Tilicho, in Manang, south of the Annapurna massif.”

There are many issues in the ACAP region, not least of which is the impact of tourism. While tourism benefits the local economy it has also placed huge demands on fuel wood (consumption of fuel wood for tourism is twice that of the local people), and serious litter problems.

“The multifaceted problems of the Annapurna Conservation Area have been addressed through an integrated, community-based conservation and development approach, an experimental model which has been in the vanguard of promoting the concepts of 'Conservation Area' through an 'Integrated Conservation and Development Programme' approach in the country and abroad.

There are clearly many issues in the Annapurna region and also positive actions being taken to address these. With the support of NTNC staff as we walk the Annapurna circuit I think we have an excellent opportunity to make connections between global climate change and positive local actions that are relevant both locally and globally.

I am sending Michael, our editor, a detailed itinerary for our trek prepared by Independent Himalayan Adventures Ltd (www.ihatours.com). This contains a brief summary for each day of our journey which Michael will post for your interest.

3 April 2007 Kathmandu

2007-04-08T18:03:00.000+12:00

I am presently sitting in our hotel room in Kathmandu, recovering from a bout of food poisoning that hit Karen and I last night. We are deeply indebted to Chandra Niraula, General Manager of Independent Himilayan Adventure Ltd (see www.ihatours.com). I called Chandra in desperation at about 10.00 pm last night and he came to our hotel and stayed with Karen and I for about two hours until he had seen us through the worst effects of the food poisoning. He knew exactly what to do for us.

It was a real effort for me to get up this morning, but Chandra turned up again with some fresh fruit for breakfast. I then had to gather my energy to make an appointment with Dr Siddhartha of the National Trust for Nature Conservation in Nepal (www.ntnc.org.np). After such a struggle at times in Viet Nam, which seriously exhausted me in the end, I am feeling very positive for our next four weeks in Nepal. Before leaving NZ Alice's class teacher, Johnny Ryan, connected me with a trekking guide who he had got to know very well about 20 years ago. Karma Lama works with Independent Himalayan Adventures as a guide. Since being here we have learnt that he has offered to guide us, with all expenses covered, for about half the normal cost. Chandra, the General Manager, is supporting Karma in this. We are very deeply grateful to Karma and Chandra for their help and support. Meanwhile, my older sister Jill and brother-in-law Nick connected us with a good Nepali friend of theirs. Damini has proved to be an excellent contact. She facilitated our first meeting with Dr Siddhartha last night.

The consequence of my meetings with Dr Siddhartha, last night and this morning, is that he is going to inform all of his field people on the Annapurna circuit who will assist us along the way. Oh.... important information is that Lena, Alice and I are walking the Annapurna circuit, leaving Kathmandu on Thursday. We will be away for 21 days in total. The one potential snag is that there is some sensitivity about me carrying a professional film camera, but I am presently confident that this will be positively resolved. Otherwise it is shaping as an awesome experience and I hope, very strongly, that we will get back on track with the core focus of this journey.

I will try to write a bit more tomorrow, before we head away into the Himalayas for three weeks.

Apologies I have got a little out of sequence here. I am sure you can sort it out.... Michael

The Trek - 7 April 2007

2007-04-07T23:00:00.000+12:00

Thank goodness Ali had a good sleep and her energy levels steadily improved through the day. Lena was at her lowest this morning and seriously struggled for the first hour. We managed however and came to a nice place above the river with a breeze blowing and small waterfall nearby. We stopped there for about 2 hours to give Lena a good rest and also ate some chapati and cheese. Lena started picking up after this, but only had enough energy to get to the tiny village of Syanje, about 3 hours short of Chamje our original destination for the day.

As we walked I saw the road building activities on the other side of the river. I had reflected on this since talking to the two brothers at Bahundanda. My view is that this is a road to nowhere. It is being built in the wrong place for the wrong reasons. The problems of deforestation and landslides are clearly evident on our walk so far. With a real likelihood of more snow melt and more intense rainfall events I think landslides will become a far greater issue with climate change. It is very evident that the road that is being built will be severely affected by the combined effects of intense rainfall, deforestation and landslides. I don't believe the resources will be there to maintain it, maybe not even to successfully complete it. I might be proved wrong, but that is my view. I think it would be far better to put the money being used to build the road into a concerted reafforestation programme.

The Trek - 6 April 2007

2007-04-06T23:00:00.000+12:00

The girls seemed better this morning as we left Khudi, although I was concerned with Ali who didn't have much appetite. Lena seemed stronger. The first couple of hours were good, but the girls started losing energy after then, Ali in particular. Once we got past Bhulbhule I got the camera out and started doing some filming, the first I've done in Nepal. It was good to finally get back to doing this after two weeks. The challenge, however, was with Lena and Ali, particularly over the last leg, uphill to Bahundanda. This was particularly tough for Ali who was really struggling. Some food and rest seemed to do the trick, or so it seemed for a while!

Meanwhile I got talking to the owners of the Mountian View guest house, Bahundanda. They talked about past efforts at reafforestation, about 20 years ago, which have proved to be unsuccessful. The forest around their village was cleared as more people moved there. The problem now is that people are continuing to cut trees and burn the grass, with reafforestation efforts often negated with uncontrolled spread of fire. They have tried to talk to local people to stop cutting trees near the village, but to no effect. The other issue affecting them is the road that is being built to Manang, which will negatively impact on the environment and tourism. They would like support for a community development project in the area. Education is clearly the key.

Just when I thought things were coming right with Lena and Ali, Lena started going down again with diarrhoea. Our primary concern had been with Ali as it seemed Lena was OK, but this proved to be incorrect. Ali's big need was for a good nights sleep. Lena was very distressed to be having diarrhoea again. It greatly distressed me as well to be seeing the girls so low.

06-Apr-2007 18:35 (NZ time)

2007-04-06T18:35:00.000+12:00

Hello all,

I can do the blog again after being sick, I am OK again now. Yesterday, Gavin and the girls went off in their van to go trekking - it was strange to be waving them off and staying in Kathmandu by myself for 10 days. I will join them in 10 days time, for the downward part from Jomsom.

It has been nice just to stay put and read and be still for a while, not filming, travelling or being a tourist.

Even so, I went to the Monkey Temple yesterday and walked up lots of steps and saw the beautiful white Buddhist Stupa with the big eyes painted on the side of it. I saw lots of small monkeys scampering around in the surrounding trees. The prayer flags are hung everywhere and look great fluttering .

A couple of days ago it was full moon and hundreds of people were up there at night to see and join in walking around the temple three times. As Gavin has the camera I got a small one though forgot to take it when I went up there, so we will all have to go up again,

At the bottom of the hill there are prayer wheels all around set into the wall. Lots of people walk around touching each one. There are even some gigantic ones that you can walk around and turn. Before the others went trekking, we walked to Durbar Square, to see lots of temples and I took some photos.

My internet time is running out so bye for now.

The Trek - 5 April 2007

2007-04-05T23:00:00.000+12:00

It was a tough start to our journey around the Annapurna circuit with Lena and Ali both having had food poisoning yesterday. As we drove out of Kathmandu I reflected on the changes I have seen since I was there in 1983, 24 years ago. More people and a lot more pollution. The rapid change in temperature that occurred over the last week, and affected ourselves with food poisoning and apparently many others, is a clear warning sign for the future. I see a serious deterioration in the environment of the Kathmandu valley.

The other thing that I noticed as we drove east is the level of haze, far worse than I remember. This was a major disappointment for Lena who had imagined us journeying into clear mountain air. Our road journey ended at Besisahar and then we walked to the village of Khudi, where we stayed the night. Not many trekkers stop here now, with the road for buses continuing to Bhulbhule. More on the road later. Our guide, Karma Lama, thought that Lena and Ali might be better for some walking, but they really struggled... even with only day packs to carry. It was a relief to get to the tea house.

25 March reflections

2007-04-05T08:24:00.000+12:00

(Gavin has some observations, gathered over the past few days, the balance of which will be published later today - Michael)

From Michael 2 April 2007

2007-04-02T22:03:00.000+12:00

I have made a modest change to the layout of the blog - mindful that not all of us are on broadband and some may have been a little put off - especially when there are a large number of photographs in view - by the time it takes for the home page to download.

Now instead of the latest 10 posts I have reduced (downsized?) the home page to the latest 5. Your enjoyment of the blog will be unchanged - just follow your nose when you get to the bottom of the page to find older posts.

Alice's email to her teacher

2007-04-02T21:51:00.000+12:00

Hi Mr Ryan

It is amazing to be here. I am so excited now to be going trekking in a few days time. Karma Lama is a very nice man and is looking after us well already. This morning he took me, Lena and Dad shopping for some extra shorts and polyprops. He was very patient with me and Lena as we went to different shops and walked from the tourist area then to the local market area and then back again, Finally we found something!!

Here in Kathmandu we are staying in Thamel, the main tourist area, which you probably already figured out. Yesterday afternoon Dad took us to Durbar Square where you now have to pay 200R to be able to walk around and see everything there. Dad says it is much busier and way more crowded than it was 24 years ago. All the shops in Thamel are amazing. I got really upset yesterday when I discovered that someone must have stolen US$40 from my wallet. It was a hard lesson for me, and must have happened one time when I left my bag with my money in my room. I worked so hard delivering pamphlets to earn that money and I just hope the person who stole it does some good with it.

I hope everything over there is going well. I miss my friends, my great teacher, my own bed, our dog and cat, but I know already that I'm a different person. It is amazing to think of all the places I've already seen and the things I've done. Sometimes it has been so fast that it has seemed unreal to me, but afterwards I stop and think about it all and I just really appreciate having such great parents. I also really appreciate so much more how lucky we are in New Zealand and how important it is for us to look after our environment.

Anyway, I'm sure I'll have heaps to say to you when I come back from trekking. I already have so much I could say from everything we've done, almost so much that I don't know where to start!!

Take care and very warm wishes, and please say hi to the class from me and if they are ever giving you trouble you please say from me just to stop for a minute and think about how lucky we all are to live in such a beautiful country and with such a good life compared to what I have seen.

Love
Alice
(Thanks Alice for giving me permission to post this email to your teacher at Taikura Rudolf Steiner School in Hastings NZ - Michael - received earlier this evening )

Photos from India - taken last week

2007-04-02T00:19:00.000+12:00

Rajgat, where Gandhi was cremated

An auto rickshaw (for those wondering)

Scene from old Delhi

Scene from old Delhi

A very famous view

View from guest house, Ganges River, Varanasi

We're in Kathmandu now

2007-04-01T01:22:00.000+12:00

We're in Kathmandu now... and already feeling a much more relaxed atmosphere than anywhere we've been since Thailand, in my opinion. The good thing is that there is some time to rest and catch up on things. Tomorrow, Sunday, we're taking as a complete rest day. I'll make some time to do a proper update for the blog Lots of internet cafes here, but will look around tomorrow to see if I can find a place where I can sit with the laptop and use a wireless connection. We're all buzzing with being here... more soon

(email to Michael)

Email exchange with Emma

2007-03-30T17:29:00.000+12:00

Hi Emmy

We spent today exploring Delhi a bit... read the blog for a brief summary from me. No photos yet! Can you send me your postal address again? I have it somewhere but am not sure where. We have a postcard from Viet Nam that we want to send to you.

Everything is good. We all enjoyed getting out and exploring today, and relaxing and just being tourists for one of the few times so far. Much love Papa
Papa, Mama, Lena and Ali

hey dad

ok i asked Iva .. and she said she would love to have you all to stay and even me if I wanted :) her husband is called Paolo and their son is Giovanni he is 13 .. they are the family that Camille and I stayed with to help Giovanni with his project on nz... they are all very nice.. oh but i think they are going away in two weeks or so and they just said to let them know the dates so that they will be home!! so thats all good but if Ali and Lena want to spend a night here I would love that and I could show them round Lugano ... and we could just hang out us three .. but talk about it and get back to me as soon as you can with the dates and all.

Hi Emmy

We're just arrived in Varanasi, by the Ganges river, this morning after an 18 hour train journey. Right now we're all sitting together in the small lobby of the guest house here, as we can't get our rooms until midday. I've managed to get a wireless connection for the laptop. I've just read out your message to everyone... and we're all so proud of you. You're awesome for being there on your own, while we're here together... and we all know that you are doing extremely well with your Italiano. It sounds that you have some very good supportive people there. Just keep on believing in yourself and in your own abilities. Here's something from Lena, a Maori proverb:

Turn your face to the sun and the shadows fall behind you

Anyway, what are we up to? We had a rest day in New Delhi on Monday, just adjusting to being in a different place. On Tuesday we got an auto-rickshaw and went to see Rajghat (where Gandhi was cremated) ... then to a place called the Red Fort... then through the streets of old Delhi. Mum was freaking out at one stage as she thought I was leading us all into these dark and dingy alleys ... but I was just following my nose and exploring. It was actually fun and very interesting.

After a while I stopped and asked someone for directions to a large mosque (Muslim temple) that we wanted to see. It turned out that I was going in more-or-less the right direction. So it was all good and Mum didn't need to worry after all!! After we'd seen the mosque we headed back to our hotel on another auto rickshaw. You have to bargain with the driver everytime before you get inside. I made sure before I left the hotel to ask for the right price, so I knew what price to ask ... which was always about half what the driver would initially ask for.

On Wednesday we booked a car and went to see the Taj Mahal ... a temple built by a Moghul leader after his second wife died. Lena and Ali had no idea what they were going to see, but it is truly one of the wonders of the world and is just an awesome sight. We'll try to organise some photos to send soon. It was a long day, about 4 hours each way, and only time for lunch and to see the Taj Mahal. On the way there we had some confusion with the driver, who didn't speak much English, and didn't have the air conditioning on in the car.... because we thought there was no air con, and he had thought we had said "no air con" to mean we didn't want it!! So we were all so hot on the way there. Fortunately we worked it out on the way back!! Yesterday (Thursday) morning we took another auto-rickshaw to a market .. as everyone wanted some Indian clothes. We've got a surprise for you... which we hope you like ... but you'll just have to wait and see.

Today .... we'll be checking into our room sometime around midday, having a quick lunch, and then going on a 5 hour tour of Varanasi to see some of the famous temples here. Varanasi is one of the main spiritual centres in India. Tomorrow morning we'll all be getting up for a boat ride on the Ganges river which starts at 5.30am and goes for 2 hours ... to watch the sunrise and see activity on the ghats (places by the river where people are cremated). We then have to leave here about 9am .... getting to and from the guest house here is amazing, through a maze of narrow alleyways that you'd never find your way through without someone to guide you to .... so we have to leave about 9am to get to a place where we can get a taxi, then out to the airport.

We depart for Kathmandu at 12.10 pm, and will be there by about 1.30pm. Our trekking guide, Karma Lama, is meeting us at the airport in Kathmandu. Ali and Lena want to tell you about the enormous spider that waits to welcome people on the steps as you come to the guest house here!!

OK.... all the stuff about Milano sounds good. I can't give you exact dates right now, but will do so once we are in Kathmandu once we have time to stop and rest a bit.... but we'll be aiming to be in Milano by 14 or 15 May ... one of those 2 dates... and then down to Rome by 17 May. Could you tell me the cost of the train from Milano to Lugano? And can you also find out the cost of the train from Milano to Rome? We have to decide whether to take the train to Rome, or fly... [..]. Lena & Ali are keen to come and stay with you in Lugano for a night, but we do need to look at the budget. It should be OK though I think.

I think this about the longest message we've sent you. I'm also copying it to a few people so everyone can read about what we've been up to this week!! Email access hasn't been very good...

Much, MUCH, love from all of us and BIG hugs.

Varanasi (11:24AM local time ...I think)

2007-03-30T16:54:00.000+12:00

Hi Michael

We arrived in Varanasi at about 6.30am this morning. Now sitting in the small lobby of our guest house by the Ganges River. Everyone is tired from the 18 hour train ride. Can't check into our rooms until midday. Power has just gone off and won't be back until about 3.30pm. We're making the most of our short time here. We've booked an auto-rickshaw tour for this afternoon (about 5 hours worth), and will be up for a boat ride on the Ganges at 5.30am, for the sunrise and scenes of the ghats. We'll be leaving here at about 9am tomorrow.... have to walk through a maze of alleys to get from where the guest house is, by the Ganges, up to a road where we can get a taxi to the airport. Scheduled to arrive in Kathmandu by about 1.30pm tomorrow.

I've got wireless access until 11pm tonight, at a cost of 350 rupees (about NZ$10). Will do our best to make the most of it, but we'll be fairly busy!

Love from us all
Gavin, Karen, Lena, Alice
(email to Michael)

Taj Mahal

2007-03-29T04:21:00.000+12:00

A long day driving to Agra and back (about 4 hours drive each way) to see the Taj Mahal, but well worth it.

We are on the train to Varanasi tomorrow and then flying to Kathmandu on Saturday.. all confirmed. Doubtful that we'll have time to send stuff from here. Maybe from Varanasi.... Will be in touch again soon.

(email to Michael)

In New Delhi

2007-03-28T00:10:00.000+12:00

I'll be posting some reflections on Viet Nam, and our first 6 weeks, soon. Meanwhile, we're in New Delhi now relaxing a bit and being tourists for one of the few times on our journey so far. Today we went into Delhi. First to the Gandhi memorial, created at the site where he was cremated. I found this deeply moving, unexpectedly so, but not surprising for me. Gandhi's life was dedicated to non-violent action and leading by example, by doing. He is one of the few people from recent history who I truly admire.

From there we walked to the Red Fort, then followed directions given by our very friendly hotel owner and plunged into the narrow alleys of the old city where we found a small place for lunch. We then walked through the maze of alleys for a while before coming to the very large mosque that is located here. Karen may send something with the names of these places. Details are back in the hotel room.

I'm sitting in a tiny, almost cavernous, room off the street in a tiny little alcove in front of what seems like a dilapidated computer! But it works!

We're presently working to finalise travel arrangements to get to Kathmandu. We've booked a car for tomorrow, to go to Agra for the day. All going well we'll be on a train to Varanasi on Thursday and flying from there to Kathmandu on Saturday. The next leg of our journey truly starts when we reach Kathmandu. Meanwhile well try to post a few photos from India before we leave.

New Delhi

2007-03-26T21:10:00.000+12:00

We're safely in New Delhi. No internet access at all from our hotel. Not much chance of getting a lot of stuff to you this week, but we'll do our best with at least some sort of text update. (email to Michael)

At Singapore Airport

2007-03-25T19:30:00.000+12:00

We're at Singapore airport now after a couple of days here in Singapore, resting a bit and getting a few things done before we launch into the next leg of our journey. Viet Nam was pretty tough, but we did some good things and met some very good people along the way. I'll write more once we reach New Delhi, to give some reflections on what we experienced and learnt in Viet Nam, and perhaps some reflections on our journey so far.

We're in India only briefly, no more than a week, before heading to Nepal. We'll be in Nepal for about a month. Lena, Alice and I will be going trekking for 3 weeks with the aim of filming people and environments along the way. More on our plans once we reach Kathmandu in about a weeks time.

Arrival in Singapore

2007-03-23T22:17:00.000+12:00

The travellers have arrived in Singapore.

From Alice in Ho Chi Min City

2007-03-22T17:17:00.000+12:00

It's our last day in Viet Nam now and then we're off to Singapore for two days then to India. Well I have to say, Viet Nam has been good and fun, but not as good as Thailand. It has been hard to get stuff to do with interviewing and filming, but in the end it has been nice just seeing this different country. My highlight was going on the Mekong river on a boat trip. The scenery that we saw from the boat was really interesting, I noticed that there was a lot of erosion happening along the banks, but it was good to see that people had planted trees, built brick walls and placed sandbags along the bank to try and prevent this from occurring.

From Lena in Ho Chi Min City

2007-03-22T17:00:00.000+12:00

After Thailand we all knew that Viet Nam would be hard in comparison because we didn't have as many connections or any set itinerary. Even though we didn't meet as many good people to interview and film, it was still worthwhile to come here.

The last couple of days we spent further south of Ho Chi Min City, formerly Saigon, in the Mekong Delta area. I liked it heaps cos it wasn't as hot and humid and even if it was, we usually had a breeze to cool down. We had a guide and driver and it was basically like in Hue, just taking our chances when meeting farmers.

Dad especially had to work real hard to get the right sort of information out of people. We noticed that although a lot of farmers were noticing changes in terms of hotter weather, we didn't meet anyone who was doing anything about it. Yesterday, our last day there, we talked with a guy who grew fruit trees along with his mother.

His mother said it was hard for farmers to find solutions to their problems because whenever they went to the government with their problems, the government people wouldn't listen to them. So the farmers don't go to the government anymore and nothing is really done about the problems they are experiencing.

From Karen in Ho Chi Min City

2007-03-22T16:40:00.000+12:00

Hi, back in Ho Chi Minh on our last day here, then we fly to Singapore for 2 days, then onto India to Nepal. We have had an interesting few days down on the Mekong Delta. The highlight was going on a boat ride on one of the "nine dragons" of the Mekong river and along one of the many canals. The local name for the Mekong is the "nine dragons" river, which refers to the nine branches that feed out from the Mekong river to create the delta.

It was interesting walking around on one of the islands and visiting a durian tree grower. We also saw a floating market, but were too late to see many of the smaller boats that would have been there very early in the morning. It was relaxing sitting by the Mekong in the evening in a hammock, drinking coconut milk , watching life go by, an endless assortment of boats and produce.

During our time in the delta we were able to film and take photos of the whole rice harvesting process from harvesting by hand, machine threshing, drying it out on large concrete pads, following the sacks of rice as they get put onto boats to go to the storage sheds and then trucked to the main cities. When we eat rice, I never realised there was so much work that goes into producing it.

Love to all Karen

Viet Nam 21 March 2007

2007-03-21T23:00:00.000+12:00

We hired a boat, with a boat driver and local guide, from the hotel. The plan was to travel through some of the canals, visit a durian tree farmer on one of the islands and then to a floating market before meeting up with our van.

For the first time in the Mekong I felt as though I could relax and enjoy myself. Karen and the girls all noticed the change in my energy as I became absorbed in filming, talking to the local guide and taking some photos. Driving through the Mekong delta had already caught my imagination… a region with a population of 18 million in 2000 and currently estimated to be 21 million by 2010. A place of people, rice, water, fruit farms, endless bridge crossings over the many canals and larger crossings over the “nine dragons”. Being on the water totally fascinated me.

We eventually came to a bank where we disembarked to visit the ‘wise’ durian grower. As it turned out this was a young businessman and his mother, the Sau Ri family (name of the father), who had converted from rice to durian production about seven years ago with the help of Thai technology and Australian aid. They were extremely nice people, growing durian trees for fruit as well as a large durian tree nursery on their 10 hectares of land.

A happy durian tree grower

These people have clearly acted positively by diversifying away from rice to a very productive fruit crop. The mother talked about the many problems in the area, pollution of water from heavy chemical use, erosion problems from river boats, insect pests in the rice. She commented that the weather is more erratic than in the past, but they don’t have any major issues as durian growers.

Scenes from the one of the ‘nine dragons”, Vinh Long, Mekong delta

2007-03-21T19:00:00.000+12:00

Viet Nam 20 March 2007

2007-03-20T23:00:00.000+12:00

It had only been the previous afternoon when I learnt the full story about the counterpart of our Thai friends who had offered assistance with contacts. We were now in a situation of having committed to the expense of a car with driver and guide, but no plan ahead of us. Doing his best to help us the guide had made contact with a local vegetable grower but this didn’t hold a lot of interest. So I asked for us to be driven to the next province, Vinh Long, where we hoped at the very least to enjoy a boat trip on the Mekong.

The main artery of the “nine dragons” river flows through Vinh Long province, which is one of the lower lying parts of the Mekong Delta. On arrival in Vinh Long we found accommodation, then lunch, and then out to the countryside. We stopped at a couple of households and talked to people. The two main things that we heard here were that water isn’t a problem for them, because it is in such abundance in this province, and that they are also now experiencing insect pest problems with their rice. When asked if there were some good local farmers worth talking to they said yes there were, but they were about 7km walk away!

By mid afternoon we’d all had enough. So we headed back to our hotel, a sort of resort complex by the river… where we sat outside to enjoy a fresh breeze and the coolness of the air as a thunderstorm passed nearby. Then to a room where the power didn’t come on until 5.30pm and even then the air-conditioning didn’t work properly!

That evening I asked our guide, Nhon, if we could somehow try and find some wise people to talk to along the river. This inspired him to call a TV station who gave him some contacts. It sounded promising for what we had decided would be our last day on the Mekong.

Viet Nam19 March 2007

2007-03-19T23:00:00.000+12:00

What initially held a lot of promise became yet another challenge to us, particularly myself. More about this later, but basically a counterpart of our good Thai friends offered to assist with contacts on the Mekong but ultimately failed to provide any useful assistance. So it was left to our very good tour guide, Nhon, to do his best to help us out.

We began our Mekong journey travelling south from HCM city (which many here still call Saigon) to Tien Giang Province. Our destination was a rice farmer in Go Cong Tay district, about 15 km from the coast. We had lunch with Mr Pham Van Tu and his family and then talked with Mr Pham and his son. These two farmers and others we met that day talked about a number of challenges they have to deal with. In the past Mr Pham only grew one rice crop per year, then it increased to two, now many grow three crops per year. Even with two crops they have to manage the second crop carefully, to time the harvest before water levels drop too low and salt water intrusion destroys the crop. Now they are also experiencing hotter weather, problems with an invasive insect pest and generally poorer rice.

Mr Pham Van Tu and his son, with Gavin and our guide Nhon. They talked about the various challenges they are facing.

We then went out into the field, along red dirt roads where many people were drying their recently harvested crop, to film farmers at work harvesting. It is a time of communal effort, with everyone working together to harvest each others crop.

A happy farmer with her crop harvested

The crop bagged from the field to be taken for drying before sale

Hand harvesting of rice

Threshing the rice in the field

Rice being delivered for sale

We learnt quite a lot about the challenges of growing rice in this coastal area of the Mekong. It is clear that farmers have to manage their crop carefully, particularly at this time of year when salt water intrusion becomes much more of a problem. Intensification of cropping, increased fertilizer inputs, invasive insects and poorer crops, are all interconnected problems that are clearly made worse by higher temperatures and drought.

Alice talkng to Emma

2007-03-19T11:03:00.000+12:00

Alice, from our hotel in Ho Chi Minh city, talking to Emma in Switzerland

From Hue to Ho Chi Minh city and beyond

2007-03-18T20:55:00.000+12:00

As Karen has already talked about we had a long train journey from Hue to Ho Chi Minh city. With more time we would have stopped at a couple of places along the way, but with only 4 full days left in Viet Nam our focus now is to get down into the Mekong Delta.

The first part of the train journey, between Hue and Da Nang, was quite spectacular as we wound around the coastline, in and out of tunnels and with stunning views. Along the way we saw a few bunkers, obviously from the Viet Nam war. In our 4 berth sleeper compartment we had a power connection so were able to plug the laptop in and watch a DVD to while away part of the afternoon. Then it was a fairly short sleep and a very early wake up call!

Ho Chi Minh city has a real buzz to it, which we are all enjoying in our one full day here, although Karen is being affected by the heat a bit at present.

After working very hard to do things in Viet Nam things seem to be coming together for our trip to the Mekong Delta. A contact through our Thai friends is assisting with people to visit and we have a very good guide who is presently organising things.

As I think I mentioned in an earlier post from Hanoi, one of my main goals in Viet Nam has been to do some good work down in the Mekong. This region, the rice basket of Viet Nam, is presently being affected by drought, fire risk and salinisation in some places. I have been partly inspired to go here by a New Zealand farmer, Doug Avery. Doug came here about 2 years ago and when down in the Mekong spoke with a Vietnamese farmer. It was at this time, talking to another farmer about changes in the weather and water supply that he was experiencing, that Doug became convinced that climate change was a reality.

Hi from Ho Chi Min City

2007-03-18T18:18:00.000+12:00

Hi everyone, we here in Ho Chi Min city in Vietnam, after a 20 hour train ride from up north in Hue. We had a mad scramble to get off at 4.30 am as we thought the train got in at 5 am. We walked around to find breakfast and will send some photos for blog. We saw the big church. I have not typed for the blog for a while, as we have to pay by the minute and have only 1 computer at times, and time is often scarce.

HCM is VERY busy like Hanoi, lots of motorbikes, markets selling EVERYTHING imaginable. We managed to get some interviews with people back in Hue, a family where the 2nd youngest son stays at home to help his parents tend the family farm and also a community of farmers who had never had European people visit them in their homes before.

No doubt the girls will mention I was so desperate for some jam I wasn't leaving a cafe until I had managed to open a jar of mango and pineapple jam to go with a croissant, which no one else could open ( The girls thought this was really funny).

It was nearly 40 degrees in Hue but luckily a bit cooler in HCM. We saw amazing landscapes from the train, marble mountains, great boulders with houses nestled into the steep slopes, broad flat landscapes, deep forests and yesterday the train went right beside the beautiful coastline, we all stood out in the passage, looking at the sea washing over big boulders as our train went in and out of tunnels.

We are off to the Mekong river delta for 4 days tomorrow, so will continue later Hi to all, we are all well, we all say hi to Emma too. Cheers Karen

18 March 2007 12:15AM local time

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17 March 2007 12:42PM local time

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17 March 2007 11:57AM local time

2007-03-17T17:57:00.000+13:00

16 March 2007

2007-03-16T23:51:00.000+13:00

Today was perhaps one of the most challenging days we’ve had. With only one more week in Viet Nam we are working as hard as we can to get out and talk to grassroots people. We organized a van and guide for the whole day, again with the help of Mr Tu. In our discussions we made clear that we wanted to meet farmers away from the coast, people growing a mixture of forest trees, fruit trees, rice and other crops. Our guide didn’t grasp this initially so we started heading in the wrong direction. I sensed this and had to work hard to make clear what we wanted to do and where we wanted to go. By mid-morning we were driving along the banks of the Perfume River, which runs through Hue, towards the hills on the outskirts of the city.

Aside from having to work hard with our guide we were also very challenged by temperatures hitting nearly 40°C and very high humidity.

We managed to meet and talk to two groups of people. The first group was a family, whose land is alongside the main north-south highway. We spoke with Mr Nguyen Chap, his wife Mrs Nguyen Thi Cam, and their son Mr Nguyen Xuan Thoi. They have 6 children, with the one son (aged 23) living and working with them. This family has about 2 ha of land and grows a mixture of citrus trees and a small area of rice.

Mr Nguyen Chap, Mrs Nguyen Thi Cam, their son Mr Nguyen Xuan Thoi

The Nguyen family farm with forest behind

The second group was a small community, who were helping with house extensions for a community member. We interviewed Mr Pham Dung and his sister Mrs Nguyen Thi Quyet. Brother and sister both grow citrus, corn, peanuts and rice crops. The community also works together to plant forest on the slopes behind their houses, with support from the government.

Mrs Nguyen Thi Quyet and her brother Mr Pham Dung with Gavin … very hot even inside

When we started out in Viet Nam I was told that the majority of Vietnamese farmers are poorly educated and ignorant of what is happening around them and in the world. This is an unfortunate perception held by too many people around the world who have little contact with farmers. Without much support in Viet Nam we have begun to focus more strongly on doing things ourselves, working with a guide to find people to talk to. Even our guide here initially had the view that it would be hard to find good thinking farmers, despite coming from a farming family. I think he has changed his point of view over the last couple of days.

The people we spoke to today, along with Mr Khoai yesterday, are experiencing hotter temperatures and more erratic weather. They read the paper and listen to the radio and know that what they are experiencing locally is connected to what is happening global. They understand the problem to be the result of deforestation and industrial development and release of greenhouse gases. These people may not be well educated but they are far from ignorant. We are consistently hearing these people talk about the need to be planting trees and protecting our water resources. They are doing the best that they can in their local environments.

Tomorrow we are catching the train to Ho Chi Minh City, a journey that will take about 18 ½ hours. We will be in HCM City on Sunday and are planning to head south to the Mekong Delta on Monday.

A view across Mr Pham Dung’s farm to their community

Mid afternoon scenes on the Perfume River (above and below)

15 March 2007 Hue Viet Nam

2007-03-16T03:53:00.000+13:00

A view of Hue from our hotel room

We managed to do a few things today, with mixed success. In the morning Mr Tu, our contact here in Hue, took us to a small community who are growing vegetables and flowers communally for the local market. It was interesting to see how this group of people is working together in a very positive way.

Watering the community garden in Hue

In the afternoon we hired a car and guide to take us out to the coast, about 15 km away. Our intention was to go to the beach and also hopefully meet and talk to some farmers along the way. The beach itself was a bit of a disappointment for the girls, who were hoping to go for a swim. There seemed to be a few cross currents and we weren’t sure enough about the quality of the water for swimming.

We drove back from the beach on the lookout for a couple of farmers to talk to. Our first stop proved to be unsuccessful. We then met Mr Khoai, from Thuan An Village. He has been growing rice since he was 13 years old, for 40 years now. Mr Khoai grows two rice crops, in the November to January period and in the March/April to May period. He has noticed temperatures getting higher and the weather in general becoming less reliable. The rainy season is tending to be more extreme, with more flooding problems and the dry season is often drier than in the past. His greatest challenge with the less predictable seasonal climate is the timing of his crops. He has to think more carefully about what varieties he grows and the timing of his production. Mr Khoai and other farmers in his village have observed these changes locally and are also aware of what is happening globally from watching television and reading the paper. He said the only solution for them locally is through seed selection and timing of production. His message to people was to keep the environment clean.

Mr Khoai talked about the challenge of less reliable weather patterns, which is making him think more carefully about seed selection and timing of his crop.

14 March 2007

2007-03-14T23:49:00.000+13:00

Yesterday morning we visited ‘The Museum of the Cultures of Vietnam’s Ethnic Groups’. After lunch we were headed back to Hanoi to organize our bags before catching the night train to Hue, in central Viet Nam. We arrived in Hue at 10.30 am today and since then have been working to organize things for the next two days. All going well we will be going out to talk to a local farmer tomorrow morning. We’ll see what else happens. On Saturday we are catching the train south to Ho Chi Minh City with a very strong focus on getting out onto the Mekong Delta next week.

From Lena in Hue

2007-03-14T20:37:00.000+13:00

We arrived in Hue this morning on the night train from Hanoi; what an adventure we had, so much fun! Ali thought it might be a bit like on the Hogworts Express in the Harry Potter books, but it took longer than it takes them to reach Hogworts.

We haven't done much filming, yet, in Viet Nam because it's taken a while to get organized and try and connect with people. I think we're all feeling frustrated with this, but hopefully we can get some good footage in the rest of our time here.

When we were up in Thai Nguyen we met with Mao (a former student of Dad's) and her family - it was really nice to see them, especially Thuy Linh because we all remember when she celebrated her birthday at Grandma's place all those years ago.

Anyway, Mao took us to meet her in-laws and we all got to go traipsing up the hill behind their house, as her Father-in-law showed us various plants and trees; some with medicine/healing qualities. He was a real character and looked at all of our hands and told us what he could see; I can't repeat what he said though cos that would be telling too much. However, what I can tell you is he said Dad has good hands and people are going to listen to what he has to say.

He also gave Dad a ring with an engraved character on top which means 'Happy'; it's going to be Dad's good-luck charm. It was very emotional and special.

We also went and filmed their family, who were planting trees that day and Mum joined and helped them for a bit. After that we went and meet her Mother, who was very honoured that we visited her; she was a lovely lady.

The only downer on that day was seeing this huge open coal mine towering above all there rice paddie. It created a real scar on the beautiful landscape and this was really sad to see.

From Viet Nam 12 March 2007

2007-03-14T14:12:00.000+13:00

Today we drove out to ….. Commune, one of the main green tea growing areas of Thai Nguyen Province. We went to meet with ………, leader of a group of 19 organic growers. These growers have moved to organic production because of health and environmental concerns from heavy use of pesticides in the area. The majority of the growers in this group are presently struggling with both lower yields and lower prices for their product, but are committed to staying organic because of their concerns. Mr ……. is aware that temperatures have been getting warmer, both locally and globally, and that weather patterns are becoming more erratic. However, these don’t seem to be major issues at present. Water is not a concern for them with many ponds in the area. These are fed from nearby Coc Lake, as part of an irrigation scheme. His focus is to build up the soil on his farm. He and others have already noted that the soil has considerably softened in the time that they have been in organic production. More immediate concerns of this group of growers are problems with an insect pest and marketing of their product. They are calling for support to assist them further in their efforts to both improve their local environment and make a reasonable living.

From Viet Nam 11 March 2007

2007-03-14T13:08:00.001+13:00

At last, the sort of day I’ve been waiting for since we arrived in Viet Nam a week ago. Mao collected us at 8.30 am with the intention of taking us out to the main tea growing area near Thai Nguyen City. However, as we set out we were discussing options and she talked about her parents-in-law and mentioned that her extended family would be planting trees today. So we turned around and went there instead. It was the right choice. Mao’s home village and her in-laws village are next to each other. To get to both we drove past a massive open-cast mining operation. It was a real education for the girls to see first hand both one of principal sources of climate change (mining and burning of fossil fuels) and one of the principal solutions (planting trees, working and living harmoniously with the natural environment) in one place, in one day.

When we came to the home of Mao’s parents-in-law we were met, and very warmly welcomed, by a very sprightly, vibrant couple … Luu Chi Kien, 78 years and Nguyen Thi Xuyen, 72 years old. We had most of the day, so there was no rush. First was the welcoming ritual of green tea, and also a toast “Chuc Mung Nam Moi” of herb-infused rice wine to the New Year.

11 March 2007: Gavin and Karen with Luu Chi Kien and Nguyen Thi Xuyen

11 March 2007: Lena and Alice with Luu Chi Kien and Nguyen Thi Xuyen

It was very evident that here was a wise couple, people who have been farming the land since they were children and have seen many changes. We set up an interview in their home. They talked about the clearing of forest that happened in the 1960s. Temperatures have become warmer and they are not getting as much water as in the past. They have replanted the forest behind their home garden and are busy planting trees in other areas to protect precious water resources and keep local temperatures cooler. Their neighbours are doing the same. It is clear to them that humans are the source of the problems they are experiencing locally and that they are aware of globally. The solution is simple, to live more harmoniously with the natural environment.

Luu Chi Kien then took us for a walk through his forest and along the way shared his deep knowledge and wisdom about medicinal values of the many plants growing there. He is man full of energy, vitality, humour, compassion and much wisdom. It was a great honour to spend time with him.

After a very simple, delicious, lunch prepared in their farmhouse kitchen we walked along the country path to the place where the rest of the family were busy planting trees. The taxi that we had hired in the morning collected us from there and we drove back towards Mao’s village where we met her mother. It was wonderful to also meet her and unfortunate that we didn’t have more time.

Nguyen Thi Mao with her husband and children

2007-03-13T15:35:00.000+13:00

A typical tea farming scene - Thai Nguyen Province

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Mao and Mr Kim on his tea farm

2007-03-12T17:23:00.000+13:00

From Viet Nam 12 March 2007

2007-03-11T20:32:00.001+13:00

Trees, rice paddy, water, people

2007-03-11T20:32:00.000+13:00

Trees, rice paddy, water, people, a harmonious environment

Sharing with the young

2007-03-11T20:28:00.000+13:00

The wise Nguyen Thi Xuyen sharing with the young, planting trees for the future

Heartfelt thanks and goodbye to Luu Chi Kien

2007-03-11T20:10:00.000+13:00

Lunch preparation

2007-03-11T18:34:00.000+13:00

A simple, delicious, lunch prepared in the farmhouse kitchen

A very strong and sprightly 78 year old!

2007-03-11T17:39:00.000+13:00

11 March 2007 Luu Chi Kien

Mao and Gavin

2007-03-11T17:38:00.000+13:00

Mao with Gavin filming in background

Luu Chi Kien

2007-03-11T17:26:00.000+13:00

Luu Chi Kien, a very wise man, imparting local knowledge about the medicinal value of the many plants in the forest, carrying a global perspective

Heading north (10:31AM local time)

2007-03-10T16:31:00.000+13:00

We're leaving Hanoi in just under 3 hours time. It has been a mixed week for us and a real contrast to our busy and productive time in Thailand. Hanoi is a lovely city, although a lot more cars and tourists than when I first came here in the mid 1990s have spoilt some of the charm of the old part of the city. Regardless, it was good to have some rest and the girls have loved exploring all the little streets and many interesting shops. The latter part of the week became a bit frustrating for me. It was good to get out in the countryside on Thursday and do a bit of informal filming, but not as much as I had hoped to achieve in the Red River area.

By yesterday I was ready to be moving, but we've had to wait for my former student to return to Thai Nguyen City, 2 hours north of Hanoi. That's where we are heading this afternoon and will be going out to see some farmers in that area with Mao. Thai Nguyen province is famous for its green tea production. We're not sure about internet access from there, so may not be able to send updates until we come back through Hanoi on Tuesday evening.

We'll be catching a night train then down to Hue.

My number one goal in Viet Nam is to get down into the Mekong Delta and will be doing as much as I can to ensure we make the most of the remainder of our time here. I read this morning in the English Viet Nam News that the Mekong Delta is experiencing drought, forest fire risk and salination problems because of low water levels. Current predictions are for a late start to the monsoon this year. I'm very interested to get out into the Delta area and talk more to people about what they are experiencing, and hopefully we can meet some people who are working for the future.

And from the other side of the World

2007-03-09T18:23:00.000+13:00

Emma and friends somewhere in the mountains of Switzerland.

A start in Vietnam 8/3/07 (evening)

2007-03-09T03:26:00.000+13:00

After a bit of confusion with the local travel agent, who thought we had cancelled our day trip, we were on the road at 10am this morning to the fields around Hanoi. A few tourist spots were also in the itinerary.

We managed to stop and talk to two small rice growers. The first, Nguyen Huu Chan, has been growing rice since 1990 on his 224 sq m plot of land. The second, Nguyen Thi Dung, has been growing rice for 37 years, since she was 7 years old. Both farmers are experiencing warmer weather this season which is good for them as the rice at this time of year is normally very slow growing. Sometimes the weather is drier than in the past. It is hard to generalise from two brief informal interviews, but these two small farmers exemplified what our friends here have said in terms of many people not being well informed about what is happening more widely in terms of climate change and its local relevance.

There are important issues here in Viet Nam. Rapid urban development and industrial expansion are leading to loss of productive land, intensification of agriculture is taking place. These various pressures make the life of the small farmer relatively tenuous, particularly on the urban fringe. There are also other issues such as ongoing deforestation, some of which is illegal, and the need to balance this with reafforestation programmes.

In our upcoming visit to Thai Nguyen Province we hope to share a few positive stories from farmers in that area, some of whom I have visited in the past.

Vietnam 8/3/07 4:17PM local time

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This small-scale vegetable grower and others in this area are likely to lose their land to industrial development in the near future.

Vietnam 8/3/07 2:00PM local time

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Illegal harvesting of trees for timber is still a problem. On the positive side there are some good reafforestation initiatives happening.

Vietnam 8/3/07 11:42AM local time

2007-03-08T17:42:00.000+13:00

The crew making their way through the rice paddy.