13 April 2007

The Trek - 13 April 2007

Today we walked from Manang to Thorong Phedi, about 7 hours walking and a 1000m gain in altitude. Karma's strategy was to get us up and over Thorong La pass and down again as quickly as possible.

This day literally became the high point of the journey for me. At 4500m altitude, in the middle of the Himilayas I met a straight talking Nepali/Tibetan man, Michung Gurung, owner of the Thorong Base Camp Lodge and Manang farmer. I had been told about this person by Bhim, the ACAP ranger in Manang. But it had been a long, hard day, and I was feeling the cold and altitude as well as needing to be with the girls, particularly with Lena who had a bit of a headache (a high altitude effect). While the girls went to bed I noticed this man outside my room, lighting a small fire and clearly beginning a small ceremony for the Gods. I went to get Karma Lama as this person fascinated me and I wanted to talk to him. It turned out this was Michung Gurung, the lodge owner and person Bhim had told me I should talk to. It turned out I didn't need Karma to translate. This man spoke good English and had plenty to say. I was blown away. After all the challenges of the last two months, after the incredible challenges since we began trekking... here I was high in the Himilayas talking to a man who was worth listening to. We went into his living quarters, next to my room. It was dark, but there was just enough light from the battery powered fluorescent light to film. Here I was on my own, the girls in bed, Karen back in Kathmandu. I filmed about 8 mins of interview at 4500m.

This has to be a voice that many people need to hear ... a straight talking man who says that the hope for the world lies in rich people putting an end to greed, an end to spending money on weapons and wars. If we turned this money to reafforestation everywhere then we might have a chance of restoring ecological balance and health to the world and of turning things around. The big problem, says Michung Gurung, is that there is too much talking in the world and not enough doing. His view is that we need to put money and resources into the hands of the doers who can provide real leadership for positive change.

Just as this amazing time came to an end... back to earth as Ali came to get me. Lena was feeling sick. Her headache turned to a bout of vomiting. We had real concerns. Karma and I decided we would see how Lena was during the night and morning and decide then whether to head for Thorong La Pass or not.

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