Lena - The Trek

Before we left New Zealand, we were interviewed by the Hawkes Bay Today. The lady who talked to us asked me what I was most looking forward to on the trip and I said: seeing the Pyramids in Egypt. Well I'm still looking forward to that, we'll be in Egypt on Thursday, but the highlight for me so far has definitely been trekking around the Annapurna circuit for three weeks.

Before we left home we did a three day walk to try out all our gear and I was so unfit and got really worried about how I'd handle walking for three whole weeks.

I never imagined that it would be such a struggle and we'd go through so much, but it wouldn't have been the same without all the hardships. The worst for me was having all these people pass us on the third day walking, but we caught up in the end. I had been fighting the food poisoning that we got in Kathmandu the day before we left and it caught up on me big time; I could barely walk, let alone carry a bag, or walk up the hills! I was so grateful that I had Dad and Ali there to support me, as well as our guide, Karma, and the two porters who carried our packs, I couldn't have done it without them all.

At times it was like walking through a fairytale landscape from stories, it was so beautiful and magical, the photos we took honestly don't do justice to it. It wasn't just the landscape, but all the weird and wonderful people we met along the way. You know who you are. Mwahaha, just kidding....hehe

Anyway back to the story. First I walked slow because I was sick, and then once I was better I was still walking slow because we were getting into higher altitudes. It felt so surreal when Dad said we were at the same height as Ruapehu and walking along flat at that height. I even ran a bit just to say that I'd run at that altitude.

All the walking was leading up to going over Thorong La pass and once we were over, it was kind of like, Ok, now what? Sweet, we'll just have to keep on walking out the other side then.

The first side was way more special to me than the second side, not to say that we didn't have really awesome experiences there too, but once we left the mountains behind, nothing compared to having been amongst such magnificent presence.

The road was definitely a mood killer and we all were really angry and upset by it, but just focus on the good things right? I'm just glad we were able to do it before it was completed. All in all this is one thing I'll never forget for the rest of my life and wouldn't change it for the world.

Tomorrow we leave Nepal after being here for just over a month. Yesterday I gave a presentation to the core climate change group in Kathmandu, with representatives from the National Trust for Nature Conservation (NTNC), WWF Nepal, IUCN, Winrock International and Practical Action.

The bulk of our time here has been spent walking the Annapurna circuit and doing what we could to interview local people along with dealing with illness and other challenges. Before we left I shared some information on the Annapurna Conservation Area Programme (ACAP). I think up to about 10 years ago this was a very strong programme for protection and enhancement of the Annapurna region.

The disruption with the Maoists and the assassination of the royal family has created greater instability and a weakening of efforts by ACAP and others. Because of associations with the royal family the ACAP presence has been significantly affected, for example the Maoists destroyed the ACAP offices in Ghandruk village three years ago. This political instability along with political pressure from China and India are some of the main reasons why the road is happening in the Annapurna region. My main message to the climate change group yesterday was the need to focus efforts on supporting wise, local leadership in developing and implementing future visions.

As I've already said here, we found good local people who simply need more support to encourage reafforestation programmes. In villages like Marpha and Ghandruk there are strong local communities at present, but they are facing challenges. Now is the time to act. We're not going to solve the major issues of our time sitting around tables. We truly need to get beyond the talk and focus our collective efforts on positive, proactive change. Ecological restoration is a fundamental necessity, everywhere. As Michung Gurung from Thorong Phedi said to me, if we could channel things away from guns and wars into planting trees we might actually make some serious progress towards a truly sustainable future. As simple as it seems I believe it truly is this simple ... if only we can get enough people to be more aware and focused on small, simple, practical actions.

Tomorrow we leave for Cairo, via Bangkok. After some days of anxiety I have finally heard from my contact in Egypt. I have been communicating with people from Sekem (see www.sekem.com) a very strong and positive initiative in Egypt that I am very interested to learn more about and share. Egypt will be very interesting and another dimension to the story, after 11 weeks in Asia. So far we've travelled from the south coast of Thailand, to hill tribes in the north, by the Mekong, to the lowlands, then on to Viet Nam from north to south and the Mekong Delta, and to Nepal walking high into the Himilayas. Now to an arid, desert region and the Nile basin. We only have 10 days there, enough to develop some impressions and meet some good people.

The Trek by Alice

The first day trekking was very hard. As everyone knows we had all got food poisoning in Kathmandu and that was not cool. So anyway the first day was the worst for me!!

As the days went by I got used to the environment and where I was and it helped me feel better as well to think that I was following in my teachers footsteps. As the landscape changed and we got to higher altitude, we experienced swelling on all our fingers and Dad's were the worst. We began to see snowy mountains and beautiful clear blue sky.

Along the way we saw lots of donkeys with heavy loads. Going over Thorong La was totally awesome and I just remember thinking, just keep on walking, one step in front of the other and slowly but surely we reached the top. I have to say, I felt like being sick, but I didn't. Then I place a stone on the pile at the top and Dad took a photo of me and Lena placing it on there.

Then we slowly made our way down the other side. For the rest of the journey I kept at a good pace. In Jomsom we met up with Mum and it was cool to see her again. From all the time we have been trekking we met some really cool people.

Trekking in the end was definitely my highlight of this journey and there's going to be way more stuff that is going to be really cool, but trekking was definitely the first for me. Now I know I can do anything and I believe in myself more for that.

28 March 2007

Today we went out from Kathmandu to the village of Lalitpur, in one of the hill areas that surround the Kathmandu Valley. Here we were assisted by Sarad Ghimire, a recent University graduate. This is his home village, a place where he grew up with the trees. Sixteen years ago the government gave the people of Lalitpur 96ha of land to manage. Initially there was scrub and pine trees, now there is a diverse regenerating forest with increasing numbers of birds and other animal species. With Sarad as translator I interviewed Mr Mani Ram Ghimire who is Chairman of the community forest management committee. There are 60 households involved in managing this common land and all are realising the many benefits of the regenerating forest, including a cooler local climate, fresher air, cleaner water, and importantly a more readily available firewood supply. The latter is carefully managed. The success of this programme is now serving as a model for other communities. It was certainly very refreshing to see such a positive initiative happening on the edge of Kathmandu, where there are multiple problems with issues such as air and water pollution, rapid population growth, urban spread, loss of tree cover. With ecological restoration now well underway the community of Lalitpur is now exploring potential economic developments that are in harmony with their local environment.

After getting to Jomsom

I saw some amazing views of the mountain peaks and ranges, donkey trains with bells jangling, villiages, and some awesome experiences, like crossing very high suspension bridges, with rushing water VERY far below us, (very scary for me who is not keen on heights). Also scrambling down steep mountain sides on narrow donkey tracks also scary for me.

Highlights were the flight to Jomsom, all the above, seeing the different villiages and talking to Tibetan women, seeing the friendly strength of the people, seeing the sunrise over the Pokhara mountain ranges and the beautiful lake and bushclad hills, the jeep, the bus ride back to Pokera, stopping at the shrineat the top of the highest point of the ranges between Pokhara and Kathmandu and seeing the bull statue and talking to the old man weaving by the shrine.

I would recommend it to anyone, even though I came back a bit earlier, myself. I know Gavin and the girls have some awesome experiences as well.

One week left in friendly Kathmandu. I love the unique Nepali art and architecture, and want to see more places. Then off to Egypt then we see Emma in Milan for 2 days (I can't wait).

The Trek in photos

Nepal April 2007

back to the world

We are back to 'civilisation' after 19 days walking in the Himilayas. Over this time I've managed just over 3 1/2 hours of filming time and around 1000 photos. I filmed less than I hoped, but believe that we have captured some quality material. From 2 months travelling and talking to local people we now have about 20 hours of film, about half of this from Thailand. It is already clear to me that there are some special people and special things happening in Thailand. Back to Nepal. Here are some reflections from the last 19 days.

We've had an amazing journey. Our experiences up to and including the crossing of Thurong La Pass is already documented here. Despite our challenges with illness we managed to experience and appreciate some stunning landscapes as we followed the Marsyangdi river towards its source. Early on in the journey there was clear evidence of deforestation. The building of the road also became a part of the thinking and reflections on present and future changes. As we moved into higher altitudes we came to people who are originally of Tibetan origin. My impression is that these are very strong people who possess a strong connection with their local environment, with rivers, forest, mountains. Not all are as aware as others, but it seemed to me that there is strong local leadership in places such as Chame and Manang. These people who are providing leadership need to be supported as much as possible. Our high point was Thurong La Pass, but the night before at Thurong Phedi was something special. Michung Gurung had a clarity, directness, and practical wisdom that I believe can only come from living with the power of high mountains and appreciating the true power of nature.

Beyond Thorong La our experiences were quite different. We no longer had this huge high altitude challenge ahead of us. We also struck a level of development that surprised me. The building of a road is far more advanced on this side. The more I walked, the more I listened and saw, the more I became very upset by this development. It is, and will continue to, impact on local communities, local economies and on the environment. Nature will prevail in a region that is already prone to erosion, landslides, flooding. They are building the road, by hand, through some very unstable terrain. It can't and won't survive in my view... certainly not without a huge and ever increasing input of resources. If I put climate change into the mix then I see very big challenges, with communities and environments that are becoming less self sufficient and resilient. Where is the hope? Beyond Jomson we came to the beautiful village of Marpha, now by-passed by the road. There we spoke to a local community leader. The road predominated in our discussions but he also talked about the strength and positive actions of their community to protect the local environment. After Marpha we had a long walk down through the Kali Gandaki valley to the village of Ghasa. For most of this walk we managed to avoid the road. From Ghasa to Tatopani the stupidity of the road became too much for me... so out came the camera as I filmed some of what I was seeing and shared my thoughts. This road was becoming a powerful metaphor for all the bad decision making in the world that ignores the obvious power of nature and benefits of working in harmony with local environments and wisdom of local people. From Tatopani we climbed to Goropani, watched the sunrise over Poon Hill and then literally ran through the rhododendron forest to the small village of Tadopani. It wasn't until we came to Ghandruk, a village of Gurung (Ghurkha) people, that I managed another interview. This is a large village, around 6000 people, with many challenges but very good community organisation. With early support from the Annapurna Conservation Area Programme they have a strong community forestry programme and other positive initiatives. After talking with Kisam Gurung, a local leader, we walked around the village with his eldest daughter. Alisha Gurung is only 10 years old but clearly very bright, very socially aware and very strong minded. A future leader. A young tree that has potential to grow tall and strong. It was a pleasure to meet this family. This was the end of our trekking. After 19 days we were ready to finish and yesterday walked from Ghandruk out to the road end at Birethanti, then to Pokhara. End of one journey...ready to begin another!!

So much that we've seen, heard and learnt over the last couple of months. Here is a story worth telling, worth hearing, worth doing something about if enough people begin to care enough.

Safely back in Kathmandu

An email from Karen in Kathmandu to Emma in Switzerland

Hi Emmy,

Safely back in Kathmandu now, I had a good 6 hour bus ride to Pokhara, which was a beautiful place. I stayed by the lake and read my book, walked around and got befriended by 2 little boys who didn't realize I couldnt speak Nepali, but loved looking at my map.

Stayed in a lovely hotel called the Moonlight. Joined Gav, Lena and Ali, in Jomsom, ( they will be back here in 2 / 3 days). I loved the flight to Jomsom, saw fantastic views of the mountain peaks above the clouds, and little villiages down below, like little square boxes and took photos with my little camera. I had a good but scary flight on a small 16 seater ( I think) and was met by Karma our guide.

The others were just getting up at 7.30 am, then a quick repack and we were on our way after breakfast. We quickly walked to the road and onto the river bed of the Kali Gandaki valley, scrambling over river stones for 11/2 hours,and got to Marpha, a lovely villiage, which I took photos of from the air. Gav interviewed a man there and he showed us up the hill/ range behind the villiage. It was a mad scramble up sheer cliffs, very scary for me especially in the high wind. The others are used to this by now. Ali even climbed in her jandals.

The next day we walked for 6 hours, it was very exausting for me as I wasn't used to it, 4 hours were good, but the last 2 were very tiring, limping with my blisters down sheer cliff faces on tiny goat trails down to the deepest gorge.

Happy Nepali New Year

I'm safe in Pocora, Gav is now in Jomsom so fly to meet them tomorrow from bye 4 now love k

The Trek - 15 April 2007

We walked to Jomsom today.... more later!

The Trek - 14 April 2007

Karma and I barely slept. The altitude and cold, dry air were affecting my breathing and I was concerned about Lena. Karma was worrying about Lena all through the night.

About 4.10am I had Karma outside my door. We went and checked on Lena. She was feeling OK, no more headaches or vomiting. The decision was to get up and go.

I can barely put in words the challenge of this day. The long, slow, 1000m climb to Thorong La Pass (over 5400m). The sense of relief and emotion when we reached the top. The sheer guts and determination from Lena. The incredible strength of Ali, who at 13 years old has to be one of the youngest foreigners ever to do this crossing ... who Karma originally didn't believe could do it when he heard her age, but he did believe when he saw what good walkers both girls are. And for me, an end to any doubt I had about my ability to do this at 48 years old and completing something I had originally been drawn to 24 years ago.

All downhill now, a long 1600m descent to Muktinath. What an incredible sense of relief and accomplishment!

The Trek - 13 April 2007

Today we walked from Manang to Thorong Phedi, about 7 hours walking and a 1000m gain in altitude. Karma's strategy was to get us up and over Thorong La pass and down again as quickly as possible.

This day literally became the high point of the journey for me. At 4500m altitude, in the middle of the Himilayas I met a straight talking Nepali/Tibetan man, Michung Gurung, owner of the Thorong Base Camp Lodge and Manang farmer. I had been told about this person by Bhim, the ACAP ranger in Manang. But it had been a long, hard day, and I was feeling the cold and altitude as well as needing to be with the girls, particularly with Lena who had a bit of a headache (a high altitude effect). While the girls went to bed I noticed this man outside my room, lighting a small fire and clearly beginning a small ceremony for the Gods. I went to get Karma Lama as this person fascinated me and I wanted to talk to him. It turned out this was Michung Gurung, the lodge owner and person Bhim had told me I should talk to. It turned out I didn't need Karma to translate. This man spoke good English and had plenty to say. I was blown away. After all the challenges of the last two months, after the incredible challenges since we began trekking... here I was high in the Himilayas talking to a man who was worth listening to. We went into his living quarters, next to my room. It was dark, but there was just enough light from the battery powered fluorescent light to film. Here I was on my own, the girls in bed, Karen back in Kathmandu. I filmed about 8 mins of interview at 4500m.

This has to be a voice that many people need to hear ... a straight talking man who says that the hope for the world lies in rich people putting an end to greed, an end to spending money on weapons and wars. If we turned this money to reafforestation everywhere then we might have a chance of restoring ecological balance and health to the world and of turning things around. The big problem, says Michung Gurung, is that there is too much talking in the world and not enough doing. His view is that we need to put money and resources into the hands of the doers who can provide real leadership for positive change.

Just as this amazing time came to an end... back to earth as Ali came to get me. Lena was feeling sick. Her headache turned to a bout of vomiting. We had real concerns. Karma and I decided we would see how Lena was during the night and morning and decide then whether to head for Thorong La Pass or not.

The Trek - 12 April 2007

A good day! Ali had slept well and no more diarrhoea! We were all able to appreciate the stunning mountain scenery here and also meet and film interviews with some local people.

Bhim, the ACAP conservation officer was very good. He accompanyed us down to some local fields where we filmed people at work. We then walked over to Gangapurna lake. This lake has formed over the last 20 years or so from the melting of the Gangapurna glacier. After lunch we met with Sonam Chhiring Ghale and Sonam Chhiring Gurung, both farmers and lodge owners. These are both smart farmers, who talked about more erratic rainfall patterns over the last 20 years, which have resulted in an irrigation scheme supported by ACAP. Big issues are declining snow levels and loss of forest cover. They can't control the loss of snow and the melting of the Gangapurna glacier but there is potential to manage forest cover. However this requires support to introduce fencing to control animals that presently free-range and to protect trees that are planted.

In Manang - a quick email from Gavin

Hi All

This is a very brief message from Manang, 3500+m alt. We're all OK after dealing with after effects of food poisoning from Kathmandu and some diarrhoea along the way. Today has been a rest day here, adjusting to the altitude. Tomorrow we will be aiming for Thorong Phedi, but may stop before there if necessary.... then Thorong La pass!! Karma our guide has been brilliant.

I've just interviewed two local farmers who are also lodge owners. There is a local glacier that is melting and rainfall patterns have changed. They are working to find solutions to rainfall changes, but glacier melting they can't control.

More later as this is costly from a very remote connection.

Love to all
Gavin, Lena, Ali

From Karen in Kathmandu

It's a beautiful day here this morning, after last night when we had another thunder and lightening storm. I was listening to a street party with live music right outside the hotel room, but after cheers, it went quiet with a power cut over the whole city it seemed to me. The music was good too. I haven't heard how Gavin and the girls are going yet, but hope to any day. I am sure they are loving their mountain adventures.

I have been wondering the streets, getting lost among the tourists, looking at all the beautiful hand crafts for sale. I would love to buy lots of things but it would be hard to carry them around and back to New Zealand. As Gavin has already said the people who are looking after us in Nepal are great, Karma, Gavin's guide on their trek right now, (who was also Alice's teachers guide), and Chandra, the general manager of Independent Himalayan Adventure Ltd. have both been excellent and so kind looking after us for our time here, and especially when we were sick.

Chandra took time out from his busy work schedule to take me around the Monkey Temple, which I really enjoyed seeing. I would recommend anyone who wants to come here to trek in Nepal, to go through them.

The people are lovely and friendly here , even if it is a busy tourist area. I enjoyed exploring the local second hand bookshop and meeting some interesting people who obviously have a great love of books. I also got asked to listen to see which bell sounded the best by another teacher, who worked in the international school in Bangkok. I hope she liked her choice in the end.

I haven't done too much sight seeing as I have been sick, but am almost better at the moment. Its been very good for me to stay close to the hotel and relax. More later when I come back from meeting up with Gavin and the girls on 25th.

I bus to Polera then fly to Jomsom to meet them which I am looking forward to.

The Trek - 11 April 2007

The challenges of the journey continued with Ali having diarrhoea in the night and again in the morning! This was a concern as from now on we were getting into seriously higher altitudes, where altitude sickness is a real risk. Ali was incredibly strong today, making it to Manang despite everything. I feel the sheer, almost indescribable, majesty of the mountains we were now among and the incredible power of nature we were feeling had a real strengthening effect on Ali. Despite all challenges of illness so far it was hard not to feel this power and energy around us. The biggest concern was when she started having nose bleeds just short of Manang. Number one priority when we got to Manang was to get on top of her diarrhoea, which we managed to do. Thank goodness tomorrow was a rest day! Time for Ali to recover and also for us to adjust more to the altitude.

What a stunning place, with the Annapurna Himal spread out above us!

While Ali and Lena rested I went down the road to the Manang District HQ of ACAP, where I met Bhim Prasad Upadhyay, conservation officer. We arranged to meet again with his manager next morning.

The Trek - 10 April 2007

I was better today, but still a bit weak. We walked down to the local Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) office where we met Sherjung Gurung, the local conservation assistant. At short notice Sherjung managed to call in Tashi Dhindu Lama, Chairman of the Forest Management sub-committee in Chame. He talked about declining snow levels and the importance of forest conservation. He saw good and bad things with less snow. Less snow and higher temperatures means more crops can be grown and more grass for grazing. But bare rock is not good, it makes the mountain gods unhappy, it makes those local people who respect and understand their environment unhappy.

This interview inspired me and gave me real confidence that all the challenges of this journey so far would be worth the effort. I felt much better as we walked from Chame in the morning sunshine, with pine forest around us and stunning mountains above. We reached lower Pisang in good time.

The Trek - 9 April 2007

Just as the girls were right, I came down with diarrhoea! I thought it had been tough until now, supporting the girls and hoping at some point I would make a few more connections to do more filming. But this was perhaps my toughest day as I drew on my reserves to get to Chame. We made it and I collapsed into bed.

The Trek - 8 April 2007

Finally we were all feeling good. Lena was determined for us to make up for lost time. It was a long day of walking as we tried to get to Dharapani. In the end we stopped at Karte, about 30 mins short of Dharapani. We'd made up 2 ½ hours, which was very good going.

Attempts to connect with local people and do more filming were on hold for the time being.

The Trek

ANNAPURNA CIRCUIT

The classic route along the Marshyangdi River, over the Thorong La (5416m) and descent of the Kali Gandaki Valley-21 days

INTRODUCTION

This is a magnificent trek which follows the Marshyangdi Khola from the subtropical lowlands to the Manang basin, and then crosses the Thorong La before descending to the deepest gorge in the world, the Kali Gandaki. The circuit of the Annapurna range is rich in variety and vistas, from the lush green rice paddies of the Marshyangdi to the arid high-altitude Himalayan interior, and it's ecological and cultural diversity provides the complete trekking experience. Along the way, the beautiful mountain scenery and fascinating village life will keep you enthralled, day after day.

Day by day Itinerary

• Day 01: Drive to Beshisahar & Trek to Khudi
• Day 02: Trek to Bahundanda
• Day 03: Trek to Chyamche
• Day 04: Trek to Dharapani
• Day 05: Trek to Chame
• Day 06: Trek to Pisang
• Day 07: Trek to Manang
• Day 08: Rest Day Manang
• Day 09: Trek to Ledar
• Day 10: Trek to Thorong Phedi
• Day 11: Trek to Muktinath
• Day 12: Trek to Jomsom
• Day 13: Trek to Kalopani
• Day 14: Trek to Tatopani
• Day 15: Trek to Ghorepani
• Day 16: Rest Day Ghorepani
• Day 17: Trek to Tadapani
• Day 18: Trek to Landrung
• Day 19: Trek to Dhampus
• Day 20: Trek/Drive to Pokhara
• Day 21: Drive/Flight back to Kathmandu

Detailed Itinerary

31 March 2007. Saturday: Kathmandu. Arrival Day.

01 April 2007. Sunday: Kathmandu. Full Day Rest. Visit Around by self.

02 April 2007: Monday: Kathmandu. Meet Dr. Siddhartha and Damini.

03 April 2007. Tuesday: Kathmandu. Sightseeing tour of Patan Durbar Square and Bungmati.

04 April 2007. Wednesday: Sightseeing of Pashupatinath, Bouddhanath and Swayambhunath.

05 April, 2007. Thursday. DRIVE TO BESI SAHAR & Trek to KHUDI [790m]
We drive along the Kathmandu-Pokhara Highway to Dumre and then follow the rough road by the Marshyangdi River to Beshisahar [760m] approximately 6 hours drive.

We start our first day's short trek from Beshisahar, turning right at the canal on the outskirts of the village and descending the narrow path to the Pam Khola. We then cross the stream and climb to the village of Denauti with its striking red-walled houses. From here we descend to the banks of the Marshyangdi Khola and then follow the trail through rice paddies and subtropical forests to the Gurungs village of Khudi, our first night stop.

06 April, 2007. Friday: TREK TO BAHUNDANDA [1310m]
Leaving Khudi we pass a school and a forest nursery as the trail continues northwards up the Marshyangdi Valley. After crossing a suspension bridge at Bhulbule, the trail passes a cascading waterfall and as we traverse the rice terraces the views of Manaslu are magnificent. Following a gentle incline we come to the village of Ngadi with its shops and teahouses. From here, the trail continues to ascend towards Bahundanda. Bahundanda literally means "hill of the Brahmins" and it is the most northerly Brahmin settlement in the Marshyangdi Valley. It is situated on a long ridge and we camp in terraced fields near the village.

07 April, 2007. Saturday: TREK TO CHYAMCHE via JAGAT [1290m]
A steep trail descends from Bahundanda, through rice terraces, before crossing a stream at the bottom of a small waterfall. It then climbs again and traverses the hillside high above the river before reaching the village of Hani Gaon. Ahead, the Marshyangdi valley forms a steep V-shape, and we follow the winding mountain path down through Syange and along the river for some distance. The trail then climbs steeply and the path is cut into the sheer cliff-face some 200-300m above the riverbed. Eventually we descend to the stone village of Jagat, situated on a shelf which juts into the precipitous Marshyangdi valley. We continue our descends until it almost reaches the river and then begins to climb again through a forest. The sheer cliff on the opposite bank plunges downward but this side is also steep. When the climb ends, we follow a level track to Chyamje, which is marked by a magnificent waterfall on the opposite bank

08 April, 2007: Sunday TREK TO DHARPANI [1920m]
From the Chyamche, after descending to the river and crossing a suspension bridge, we begin a climb to Sattale on a path so steep that it seems one slip would send you hurtling down into the valley. We continue on an undulating path above the river, and at one point, where a tributary flows in from the opposite bank, the main river becomes covered with huge boulders that hide the water. Climbing the zigzag path to the top of the hill, we see the level, plain of Tal before us. Though it is enclosed by cliffs, the level area looks reassuring after the harrowing mountain paths just traveled on. We descend to a grassy riverbank which leads to Tal with its hotels and teahouses. Beyond Tal, the valley narrows and the path becomes high and winding, and in several areas hewn from the rock itself. Beyond the small village of Karte, there is a bit more cliff-walking before the path drops again to the river. We cross a suspension bridge, and climb the short distance to the stone kani marking the entrance to Dharapani.

09 April, 2007. Monday: TREK TO CHAME [2630m]
As we cut through a narrow field from the village, the Dudh Khola, which originates from the south face of Manaslu, enters on the opposite bank. The Marshyangdi then veers to the left, and as Annapurna II becomes visible ahead, we arrive at Bagarchhap, a Bhote village with prayer flags fluttering in the breeze. Continuing to climb through forests of pine and oak, we pass through Danakyu before coming to a thundering waterfall. Further on, the Marshyangdi Khola enters a gorge and the path consists of steep stone steps. Pausing for breath, we can look back for views of Manaslu. When the steep incline ends we follow a path amid magnificent rhododendrons to Ratamron and then continue on a gently rising path, crossing a stream before entering a pine forest. We then cut across a loose hillside to the hamlet of Kotho from where we can look straight up at nearby Annapurna II - a sight convincing us that we are deep in the Himalayan Mountains! From here the trail climbs through a fir and pine forest to Chame where there are government offices, shops, and hotels. Chame is the administrative headquarters for the Manang district.

10 April, 2007. Tuesday: TREK TO PISANG [3190m]
With Lamjung Himal [6893m] sparkling in the morning sun, we set off for Pisang. The mountain disappears as we climb the path up the valley, passing a huge apple orchard. We continue through a fir and pine forest, climbing to a high, rocky area as the opposite bank becomes an impassable cliff. From this point the valley becomes extremely steep-sided as we follow the path to Bratang. In the past this was the military station for troops who fought against the Khampa tribal revolution, but the dilapidated buildings are all that remain of that era. A short climb from the village brings us to a rock-strewn area where we cross a wooden bridge and follow a high, winding path, before crossing back to the right bank again. We now walk through a pine forest and as the forest ends, the valley changes from a V-shape to a gentle U-shape, opening up a wonderful vista before us. We can see the east peak of Annapurna II as well as Pisang Peak to the north-east. Continuing on, we come to a long Mani wall by a bridge and the lower village of Pisang.

11 April, 2007. Wednesday: TREK TO MANANG [3520m]
Beyond Pisang, the trail climbs a steep ridge which affords good views of the Manang valley and Tilicho peak. Descending past Manang's airstrip at Hongde, we come to a level area from where the north-east face of Annapurna III rises majestically above us. From the wide plains of the Sabje Khola Valley, Annapurna IV [7525m] also becomes visible. Just beyond this point we cross the considerably reduced flow of the Marshyangdi Khola via a wooden bridge to the tiny village of Mungji. Cultivated fields appear on both sides of the path and off to the right, below a craggy mountain, we can see the village of Bryaga with its splendid monastery. Large chortens and Mani walls abound and the tall peaks of the Himalaya spread out before us - Annapurna II, Annapurna III, Annapurna IV, Gangapurna [7455m] and, to the rear, Tilicho Peak [7134m] After a short steep climb we reach Manang which is a surprisingly large village for this remote mountain region. We camp here for the night, amidst the fluttering prayer flags which adorn the houses.

12 April, 2007. Thursday: REST DAY IN MANANG [3520m]
An important rest and acclimatization day today before crossing the Thorong La. There are optional day walks such as crossing the river to see the tremendous ice-fall coming down from the Annapurnas, or climbing high above the village for a full panorama of the Annapurna range and the Manang Valley. There is also a Himalayan Rescue Association [HRA] aid post in the village which makes an interesting and educational visit. This day we may visit around Tilicho Gaon too.

13 April, 2007. Friday: TREK TO LETDAR [4250m]
From Manang, we climb to the next village of Tengi, with the magnificent Annapurna Himal in view all the way, while behind us we can see Peak 29 and Himalchuli in the distance. We are now past the tree line and the vegetation consists of alpine grasses and scrub juniper. Climbing the path past the summer village of Gunsang, we cross the Gundon Khola via a wooden bridge. From here we can see ahead the mountains surrounding the Thorong La which we will cross tomorrow. The trail is up and down as the elevation gradually increases and we soon enter an alluvial delta where there are yak pastures. An hour beyond this, we come to the small settlement of Ledar.

14 April, 2007. Saturday: TREK TO THORUNG PHEDI [4500m]
Leaving Ledar, we climb gradually to a ridge before descending to the headwaters of the Marshyangdi and crossing via a covered wooden bridge. After a short ascent up the mountain path on the right bank, we follow a narrow trail across an unstable screen slope and then descend to Thorong Phedi.

15 April, 2007. Sunday: TREK TO MUKTINATH [3800m]
An early start today for our crossing of Thorong La [5416m]. The trail becomes steep immediately on leaving camp but as this trail has been used by local people for hundreds of years the path is well defined. The gradient then eases and after around 4 hours of steady climbing we reach the chorten and prayer flags of the pass. The views are dramatic to say the least, from the snow covered mountains above, to the head of the Kali Gandaki valley below and the brown and purple hills of Mustang which are spread out before us. The descent to Muktinath is a knee pounding 1600m but it's compensated for with excellent views of Dhaulagiri. Eventually the moraines give way to grassy slopes before a pleasant walk along the Jhong Khola Valley to Muktinath and its shrines and temple.

16 April, 2007. Monday: TREK TO JOMSOM [2713m]
Descend gradually through fields and poplar groves, then into the Kali Gandaki river valley. Follow the valley southwards to Jomsom. The Kali Gandaki valley here is called the Thak Khola, from the ethnic group the Thakalis, the main inhabitants of this area.

17 April, 2007. Tuesday: TREK TO KALOPANI [2530m]
Descend to Marpha, a lovely village of whitewashed houses and fertile fields. Continue down the Kali Gandaki reaching the old Thakali trading centre of Tukuche. As the trail continues, the Himalayan rainshadow end and open spaces make way for coniferous forest and Kalopani (2560m.) From here there are spectacular 360 degree views of Dhaulagiri and the Annapurnas high above.

18 April, 2007. Wednesday: TREK TO TATOPANI [1160m]
Our trail descends steeply through forests to Ghasa, the last Thakali village and the southern-most limit of Tibetan Buddhism. We enter the steepest and narrowest part of the gorge shortly after Ghasa and at the hamlet of Rupse a magnificent waterfall tumbles down beside the trail. Continuing on we come to Dana, a Magar village from where the large peak of Annapurna South can be seen across the valley. The trail then descends to Tatopani where apple pie awaits and we can bathe in hot springs at the side of the river.

19 April, 2007. Thursday: TREK TO GHOREPANI [2775m]
A short distance downstream from Tatopani, we cross the river on a large suspension bridge and leave the Kali Gandaki behind. After passing through the villages of Shikha and Chitre, we begin to climb through the forest to Deurali, a 2834m pass from which there are excellent views of Dhaulagiri, Nilgiri, Annapurna I, Annapurna South, and Hiunchuli. Just 10 minutes beyond the pass is the village of Ghorepani. Ghorepani literally means "horse water" and is a welcome watering spot for the teams of mules which ply the route between Pokhara and Jomsom.

20 April, 2007. Friday: GHOREPANI REST [2775m]
This day we hike up to Poon Hill [3210m] and look very nice view of mountains the whole Annapurna Range. And back to Ghorepani for Rest.

21 April, 2007. Saturday: TREK TO TADAPANI [2590m]
The day from Ghorepani to Tadapani is really fantastic. We have to walk by Forest. And there you have to cross Deurali and Banthanti. Your trekking would be around 6 hours.

22 April, 2007. Sunday: TREK TO LANDRUNG [1640m]
From Landrung, you can trek to Ghandrung a really nice Gurungs Village. Most of houses are Ex Gurkhas. From Ghandrung you can trek down to Modi Khola and from the Khola trek to Landrung.

23 April, 2007. Monday: TREK TO DHAMPUS [1770m]
After breakfast begin your trek to Dhampus. You will cross many villages Tolka, Bichok, Bhedikharka, Deurali, and Pothana on the way.

24 April, 2007. Tuesday: TREK/DRIVE TO POKHARA [820m]
After breakfast we begin out ending trek to Phedi. It will take us less than an hour and then drive to Pokhara. **

25 April, 2007. Wednesday: DRIVE/FLIHT BACK TO KATHMANDU [1310m]
The short but spectacular flight or drive takes us back to Kathmandu for a well earned rest